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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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rusty fuel

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Danny /Ks.

06-12-2007 20:56:32




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I Have A te20 that will not throttle up,it spits and sputters when driving around and boggs to nothing when under a load.I have tried to clean the tank,rebuilt carb, installed new plugs, wires, points, installed new fuel bowl assembly. still getting rust in fuel bowl.removed plug from carb fuel barely coming out.Should I try an inline filter or am I missing something. Thank You for any help. Danny.

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Indiana Jones

06-14-2007 18:25:30




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
I took the rusty tank on my TO 30 to my local radiator shop and had it boiled out. Came out real nice.



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Danny /Ks

06-13-2007 16:17:53




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
Hey guys thanks for all the sugestions. Going to try cleaning tank a lot better and mabey a ford bowl.Im getting a bluish white spark just not sure about diameter, seems thin to me not too good with electrics!! I am located east of derby.Again thanks for all the help. Im off to pull the tank.



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Jerry/MT

06-13-2007 17:30:37




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks, 06-13-2007 16:17:53  
I use lawn mower fuel filter's in my fuel line. They're designed for gravity flow fuel systems. Wal-Mart has them.



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gshadel

06-13-2007 14:35:54




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
Danny, I can add little to the fine recommendations you have recieved from the other posts, but have a couple comments. "spits and sputters while driving around" sounds like an ignition problem to me, not a carb problem. New points, wires etc. was a good idea, but you still need to verify you have the "bluish-white" spark.
Don't forget about that elbow strainer that screws into the carb, might be clogged. You may be able to install a Ford-style gas shut-off which has a screen inside the gas tank to keep junk from getting into your gas bowl. The sloshing of your gas tank helps keep that screen clear. I know the Ford gas shut-off is a perfect fit in my TO-20 tank, not sure about your TE-20, it would probably work fine. Ultimately, you will likely need to spend some time/money cleaning out your tank if the rust is really that bad in there. In addition to the ideas below, I've heard of guys throwing a piece of chain in the tank, strapping it to a rear wheel and driving around for a while, also heard guys use gravel. Call around a few places, might find a place that will do the chemical cleaning deal... one warning on that, we use acid to clean rusty steel jacketed vessels where I work... .sometimes the acid does "too good a job", and you end up with leaks.
Several guys have installed car in-line plastic gas filters with rubber fuel hose. If you do that, get the biggest filter you can find, most of those filters are intended for pumped fuel, not your gravity flow fuel system. I'm not a huge proponent of rubber fuel lines, imagine the fire potential if a rubber gas line were to let loose above your hot engine.

George

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Jerry/MT

06-13-2007 10:01:39




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
I would normally advise you to check your spark first and make sure it's FAT & BLUISH-WHITE because most (80-85 %) poor running problems are due to ignition problems and that's stiil a good idea. It sounds like you may also have a dirty tank that's shedding crap in corruption.that these old machines picked up while sitting for years in old barns and blackberry patcheds. Take a suitable container, open your tank valve wide open, remove the plug from the bottom of the carb and catch the fuel running out. It should gush out CONTINUOUSLY, LIKE A COW PEEIN' ON A FLAT ROCK for at least60-90 seconds. If it doesn't, if it dribbles, or is intermitent, you have insufficient fuel delivery and that could be caused by a blocked vent hole in the gas cap , or blocked screens above the sediment bowl, in the secret filter located in the carb fuel elbow, or a kinked fuel line.

If it does, go back and check the ignition system by pulling the center wire out of the distributor, holding it near a good ground, turning on the key and trying a start. You need a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK. Anything less is not good enough. If that's OK, then start it up and check the timing and the function of the centrifugal advance to make sure that you're getting the spark at the right time throughout the operating range of rpm. Finally, make sure that your aircleaner is not severely blocked. Do these checks systematically and write down the results. You should find your problem then.

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tbb

06-13-2007 06:06:51




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
Where you located? I'm in Rossville. Sounds like your carb needs a cleaning plus all the screens in the fuel system. I've heard of a lot of ways to clean the tank, BB's, nuts/bolts, muractic acid, radiator shop boiling it out, etc. Its pretty hard to get it all out by rolling the nuts, BB's, etc around in it with the baffles inside the tank but anything helps. I used muratic acid on one about 8 years ago and it worked pretty well, used a tank sealer after cleaning it. Might want to be careful with this method, if severely rusted, might develop holes in tank.
Tom B

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Ron Taylor

06-12-2007 22:07:17




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 Re: rusty fuel in reply to Danny /Ks., 06-12-2007 20:56:32  
A filter will only plug up real quik.You need to take the tank off and clean it out.I've done several this way.Plug the bottom throw in several handfuls of nuts and bolts,put in acouple gallons of water put the cap on and shake awhile pour out water,leave bolts in keep doing this till you get clear water,dump what bolts will come out,use a magnet on the rest.I've got an 8N I did this to about 10 years ago & it still runs fine.Would'nt hurt to add some heat once in awhile to get rid of the water.Also make sure the tank is good and dry before you put it back on.

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