Plug wires and spark.

Thanks again for the help.

If you can't get the requisite FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, check the voltage along the primary ignition circuit from the battery to the key switch, from one side of the key switch to the other(with the switch on and the points closed) and at the battery side of the coil. You should have battery voltage up to this point. If you don't, check all the connections. Ifyou hve a large drop in voltage across any component ahead of the coil, that's where the problem is at. Key switches can go bad, wiring connections get corroded and wires loose insulation and short out. Make sure that the wire that runs from the coil to the distributor is attachecd to the coil terminal with the same sign as the battery ground.(i.e. if the battery ground is a positive ground, the wire between the distributor and the coil should be on the positive(+) terminal of the coil.The voltage on the wire running to the distributor from the coil should be near zero(remember the points must be closed for this test.) Now make the points open and measure the voltage across the coil. With the points open, the voltage should be the same nd equal to battery voltage. If it' not your coil is bad.

Write the results down so you can analyze them or report them back here. Don't leave the key switch ON with the points closed for more than 10-15 minutes because you can overheat the coil.

thanks for any help
mick

Once you have that set up, loosen the ditributor, put the cap on and close it up, remove the center wire from the cap and hold it near a good ground. Turn on the ignition switch and rotate the distributor back and forth til you hear the spark snap. At that point you are staically timed. You may have to do this several time to get it right and when you do, tighten down the hold down bolt. When you get it started, check with a timing ligh and also check the advance mechanism operation by increasing the engine speed and seeing the timing advance.

Since you didn't say what tractor you are trying to time, I can't help you with the specs.

IGNITION "OFF"!!!... with #1 (next to radiator) spark plug removed, hold a finger OVER the spark plug hole while SLOWLY rotating the engine in the direction of normal roation.

As #1 piston is coming up, on the compression srtoke, air will be forcing out past your finger. At TDC, the air coming out will stop, then there'll be suction, as the piston begins to go down. At the point the air quit coming out, the piston is at #1 TDC, and the rotor should be pointing at the #1 high-tension tower, with the points having JUST BEGUN to open.

Check that out, to be SURE the distributor is timed correctly to the engine.

Not sure exactly what you're working on, but points @ .020", and plugs @ .025 " or .030" will get you close!