TEA-20 starting update

We've now got it running..... for about 5 seconds. We can get it to start with plenty of choke, runs ok for 5 seconds or so, backfires a lot, throws oil onto the windscreen via the air cleaner, and clunks to a stop.

We tinkered with the timing via the distributor, but not made much difference.

Anyone got any tips? I was thinking that maybe the timing is still out, and we haven't sorted it properly. There's plenty of fuel going to the carb, and we've adjusted the jets as per the manual, but not having much luck.

One thing I did notice is that while it's running, the nut that hold the choke valve oscilates madly, clockwise and anticlockwise. If you hold the choke shut via this nut, it runs for longer, but I don't know what might cause this.

Any help, as ever, gratefully received.

Thanks, Matt

Above that there is an adjuster with a spring and a slotted head - is that the high speed adjuster?

And behing the neck of the carb, there is an adjuster that seems to be a throttle stop of some sort - how important is that setting?

And finally, I don't understand about the inlet screen at the entrance to the carb. As far as I can tell, the fuel pipe goes straight through to the float chamber, via the float cut off switch. Am I missing something?? The carb is a Zenith.

Thanks for your help, Matt

Upper Screw = Idle, Throttle Stop = Idle speed

The distributor rotor should now be pointing at/near the #1 plug terminal in the Distributor cap. If it's not than you are severly out of time. You can either pull the distibutor out and get it to near where the #1 plug terminal is where the rotor is pointing or you can move the wires and making sure that the #1 wire is near the terminal where the rotor is pointing. then loosen the distributor hold down bolt, holdthe #1 plug wire near a good ground, turn on the ignition switch and carefully rotate the distributor in small increments back and forth til the plug wire fires. At the point that it fires, you are statically timed. You may have to do this several times to get it right and when you do, carefully tighten the holf down bolt. You should now be able to start it up and check the timing with the timing light. Adjust y rotating the distributor with the engine idling til you have the spec timing. Also check the advance mechanism with the timing light by increasing the rpm and noting the change in the timing with increased speed. you'll also need to make sure that you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, by removing the center wire from the distributor cap, holding it near a good ground and trying a start.

Hope this helpsyou. Let us know the results.

With the Standard engine in the TEA20/85, there is a 1/4 inch hole through the block casting below the starter motor. Using a 1/4 inch rod, the engine will be on TDC No 1 cylinder when the rod aligns through a corresponding hole in the fly wheel. It is not necessary to remove the starter motor, however if the starter is removed "0" will align with a grove in the starter motor hole.

JMHO

When the engine is at TDC No 1, facing the LH side of the engine, the distributor rotor should be in approximately the 9 o'clock position.

(My distributor contains an electronic igniter which replaces the points and condenser, but the rotor position is the same.)

Ooops! Not 9 o'clock position. Approximately 10.30 position.

As ever, many thanks for your suggestions, I'll keep you posted!

Matt

"...runs ok for 5 seconds or so,..."

So, I doubt it is ignition timing.

"...backfires a lot,"

That is a worry....

"...throws oil onto the windscreen..."

You have a windscreen?????

Apart from a good ignition tune up, I still feel your problem is fuel!

When I say alright, it's difficult to gauge over 5 seconds. It's "ok" when we hold the choke shut, but let go of the nut that's on the other side of the carb than the choke linkage, it's all over. When I took the carb off to re-seal the gasket, the butterfly valve was covered in soot.

It certain is a worry, especially when you've got your head down near the air filter and it's banging through there!!!!

And yes, my Dad picked up a cab off ebay for abuot £60, pretty good (can't see out of the windscreen now though!!)

I wonder if we need to get new pipes and stuff. I carried out the "cow peeing onto a flat rock" test someone like using on here, and it's leaked fuel at a decent rate until the tank was empty, so other than that, I'm a bit stumped.

When I say alright, it's difficult to gauge over 5 seconds. It's "ok" when we hold the choke shut, but let go of the nut that's on the other side of the carb than the choke linkage, it's all over. When I took the carb off to re-seal the gasket, the butterfly valve was covered in soot.

It certain is a worry, especially when you've got your head down near the air filter and it's banging through there!!!!

And yes, my Dad picked up a cab off ebay for abuot £60, pretty good (can't see out of the windscreen now though!!)

I wonder if we need to get new pipes and stuff. I carried out the "cow peeing onto a flat rock" test someone like using on here, and it's leaked fuel at a decent rate until the tank was empty, so other than that, I'm a bit stumped.