TO 20 Generator Test

To test full output for just your generator, you basically bypass the voltage regulator. To test the generator alone for full output, run a jumper wire from the field "F" terminal on the generator & connect to ground (positive). That will force your generator to full output. Running your engine ~1/2 throttle or better, your amp gauge should ramp-up to ~12+ amps, depending on your generator model, using a volt meter, you should get ~7 volts across the battery. You can adjust the generator amp output somewhat by moving the 3rd bush back & forth within it's mounting screw.
If that test works, but your battery is not charging, either your battery is weak, or the V. regulator is not functioning correctly.

George

Turn on the ignition. There should be a little discharge 4 amps on 12 volts, 8 amps on 6 volts if the points are closed. Turn on the lights there should be more discharge.

Start the engine, when running at a fast idle or faster the ammeter should show a charge. And then should taper to zero over a period of maybe 20 minutes or a half an hour, quicker with an alternator, slower with a smaller generator, but it the charging current should taper off to zero. That shows the generator is charging the battery with about the proper voltage, that the battery isn't sulfalted and the generator has the capacity to supply ignition and battery charge. Turn on the lights, the ammeter may flicker but should stay close to what it was with the lights off still tapering towards zero. That shows the generator is doing all the work it needs to do.

Gerald J.

Point is there should be current out of the battery with the points closed and the engine not running. Its purpose here is a check of the ammeter. Turning on the lights is a further check.

Gerald J.