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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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crank ground

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mark from the f

05-03-2007 05:42:05




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Thinkin' real serious about giving the ol' worker 35 an overhaul. Compression is down to 70 in all cylinders-and- the oil pressure drops from 40 to less then 10 when she is workin' hard. The switch to 40wt oil helps, but is only a bandaid. If I get in there, and find the crank needs ground, do I assume the machine shops will know the correct dimensions of a Z134 crank? I see bearing kits in standard and .010 and .020 oversize--
My question is, "do they look up the standard size and go from there?" Thanks, Mark

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mark from the fort

05-04-2007 08:05:30




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 Re: crank ground in reply to mark from the fort, 05-03-2007 05:42:05  
I thank ya fellas. I assumed the have tons of books and sources for ALL sorts of engines and specs.--just looking to see if there where any hints out there. Better safe than sorry. Many thanks to all (as always) Mark



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Bob

05-03-2007 06:58:55




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 Re: crank ground in reply to mark from the fort, 05-03-2007 05:42:05  
Bearings for a re-ground crank are UNDERSIZE, 'cause the bore in them is SMALLER.



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Jim in OH

05-03-2007 06:15:09




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 Re: crank ground in reply to mark from the fort, 05-03-2007 05:42:05  
Hi Mark, Yes they do (or should)... at least any shop worth a grain of salt.... Had mine reground and got it back last week.. it measures "exactly" to specification (0.010 under within 0.0001, if my mic is that good?) and I told them nothing, and I had them supply the bearings (rod and main) since i was not sure how far they would have to go, and bought the kit without bearings from this site.

I might add, that catching it early may allow you to just put bearings in without a complete regrind... On mine, it was all standard except one journal was scored... so it was reground... regrinding is about $100 total...

Jim

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Bob

05-03-2007 07:00:26




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 Re: crank ground in reply to Jim in OH, 05-03-2007 06:15:09  
Problem is, crank jornals wear "egg-shaped", so, if there's any wear at all, installing new bearings without a regrind is usually NOT a long-lasting "fix".



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JIm in OH

05-03-2007 08:52:02




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 Re: crank ground in reply to Bob, 05-03-2007 07:00:26  
I agree, IF they are worn, that is the way they will wear ("egg-shaped")... However... if they are within spec (which is what I was suggesting might be the case if caught early enough), egg shape at less than the spec limit won't matter; they are okay... Mine were standard and within spec (all directions) except for the scored journal.. Dimensions should be checked in several directions (maximum wear points develop during compression and power cycles) to determine maximum wear points....

By the way... I am personally still an advocate of re-grinding the crank just because of my former performance engine days (and my perfectionism) just as I always install a new or reground cam, align-hone the mains, recondition the rod ends, re-grind the tappets and rocker arms, but I think that is usually not necessary either for this slow moving antique iron... and if the crank has already been re-ground a couple of times, re-using it when within spec will postpone a $500 purchase.... Jim

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Brian in Iowa

05-03-2007 06:13:32




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 Re: crank ground in reply to mark from the fort, 05-03-2007 05:42:05  
The crank shaft should be turned and bearings put in.the machanie shop can measure it but when u take it a pary look at the bearings and on the back side of the bearing it will tell u what the crank size is like.010 or .020 like that but the machine shop can tell u the size of the crank its.MAke sure u mark ur connecting rods and caps of the place the cme off of. Like 1,2,3,4,5. if u need more help email be and ican get back with u.

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