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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TEA 20 coil

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corey f.

03-20-2007 13:04:31




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ok, im passed getting to my wits end and at this point my wits have been woefully departed for several months. here it is, My tea20 would run for about 20 min. then just stop cold on me.Since the beginning of this problem I have done the following... replaced the battery, replaced the plugs wires condensor and coil,replaced the hoses to the air filter, cleaned and reinstalled the air filter, cleared the little hole in my gas cap, pulled the gasline away from my block to avoid vapor lock, replaced the ignition switch(unrelated), and just recently had my carb rebuilt. so upon putting the carb back on and running it for about 20 min. it dies on me once again...AAARRRGGG!!!!! im thinking its a faulty new coil, at least that would make somekind of sence. anyone know the right 12vcoil for this headache? your help is much appreciated.

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Jerry/MT

03-23-2007 15:00:03




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 Re: TEA 20 coil in reply to corey f., 03-20-2007 13:04:31  
I just re-read your note and I missed the part about "what is the correct 12V coil?" NAPA has a "real" 12V coil, NAPA part number IC-14SB (~$15)that should work for you. It has the proper resistance built in.
Some so called "12v coils" have fine print on the side of the can that says something to the effect "always use with an external resistor". this is basically a 6 volt coil and thus when used with a 12V system without a separate resistor, can overheat, melt the tar like insulation and then not work til it cools down again. You then start up, it runs for awhile and finally overheats and shorts again.

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andyhr2

03-23-2007 13:35:54




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 Re: TEA 20 coil in reply to corey f., 03-20-2007 13:04:31  
Assuming it stops dead, or almost; it is electrical. Reminds me of a similar problem I had on tea20. Turned out to be the rotor arm. No visible problem with arm or cap, but swapped for a borrowed one and fixed. "Proper" rotor arm cost around 16GBP in uk and is not the version regularly seen on sale to do the job. I conclude that with ditributor caps being pattern parts, and rotor arm a pattern part of an "also fits type" the tolerances are just too great in certain circumstances. Hope this helps!

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Jerry/MT

03-20-2007 14:36:52




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 Re: TEA 20 coil in reply to corey f., 03-20-2007 13:04:31  
Gee, youreplaced everything but your the points ans distributor cap! How come you didn't replace them? The first thing I would do when it stops running is to pull the wire from the center of the distributor, hold it near a good ground and try a start. You should have a FAT BLUISH WHITE SPARK FROM THE WIRE. If you don't have a FAT, BLUISH WHITE SPARK, there is most likely a problem with the primary ignition citcuit. That's the circuit that starts at the battery, goes through the key switch to the coil and on through the distributor points to ground. Since you say it dies in about 20 minutes, it could be the key switch that needes replacing. If you have a volt meter, when the engine stops, measure the voltage with the key on AND THE POINTS CLOSED. It should read full battery voltage.(It should read that points opened and closed but there will be current flowing through it with the points closed that will keep it warmish if it's has a high resistance.) Touch the switch from the back of the dash and see if it feels warm. They sometimes get gunked up inside and overheat in 15-20 minutes and short internally.

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John (UK)

03-20-2007 14:13:52




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 Re: TEA 20 coil in reply to corey f., 03-20-2007 13:04:31  
Sparex do one part S42377 12v or S61548 6v It does sound electrical, I think I would try a Condenser again first, you get more of them faulty than coils.



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