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TO 20 overhaul

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mike pollet

03-11-2007 10:31:07

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Began working on the TO 20-had the oil ran out ofit 2 years ago, found out why when I began tearing it down--oil pan had big dent at filter cap area, i wondered what all the chaulk was hanging out there for.
---I have hired a farm lad, mechanic, that goes to the local 2 year ag school nearby, it has an excellent 2 year farm tech school, He is in His seconed year. ---We changed out the pan and put in fresh oil,and with a fresh battery tried starting it, it turned over good, didnt grunt or sound bad, but no spark! My mechanic says He will bring His volt meter to check out where the spark is stopping--i thought there is a simple test to make at the spark plug---but dont know exactly how to do it. I realize if the spark isnt getting past the ignition switch or coil it isnt going to get to the spark plug---but the spark plug test is usally reliable--im just checking on my mechanics understanding of this test.
could someone tell me how to do this test>?

thanks, mike ---

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Jerry/MT

03-11-2007 21:34:20

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike pollet , 03-11-2007 10:31:07

A quicker way is to remove the center wire from the distributor and hold it near a good ground while you try a start. You should have a fat, bluish white spark, not blue, red orangey or yellow; FAT, BLUISH WHITE!If you have that then your points and coil are fine. Check at the plugs and you'll see if the wires and the cap terminals are OK.

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mike a. tenn.

03-12-2007 06:07:50

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-11-2007 21:34:20

hey jerry!...how ya doin'? not to dispute your test, just curious as to how this lets you know your points are ok? maybe it's that your points have to be working right to get your coil to spark like that? if that's the case and it DOESN'T spark whitish blue, how do you know then if it's your points or coil that are bad? i don't know..that's why i'm askin'. take care buddy.

-mike

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mike pollet

03-12-2007 19:30:32

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike a. tenn., 03-12-2007 06:07:50

We could not get spark from the coil wire to the frame. We changedout the coil and coil wire. Made a good ground by scraping clean metal steering rods, then tried a big nut at the transmission housing-nothing.
---used volt meter-we have 6.3 at at end of coil wire, why wouldnt we have a spark? Could it be showing 6.3 but not really having any juice?
---when i bought the new coil wire, the coil wire was different than the one that was there-the one there had more or less a male stub end, the one i bought i had a sort of reciever, but we modified it to get a good connection, i dont think thats the problem.
---its a little setback, i knew my mechanic might be kind of green going into this , so im being patient-he is going to ask some mechanics and since its spring break, his teachers will not be back in class till next week, Im hoping to get this figured out before then.
any feedback would sure be appreciated

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Jerry/MT

03-12-2007 18:57:59

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike a. tenn., 03-12-2007 06:07:50

Mike, it eliminates the plug wires and the rotor and cap terminals The points and the rest of the primary circuit still have to function properly to make a FAT, BLUISH WHITE SPARK at the center terminal. You can't have a bad coil and/or bad points and have a FAT, BLUISH WITE SPARK at the center terminal. Draw yourself a ciruit diagram and you'll see what I mean.
Regards, Jerry/MT

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mike polllet

03-13-2007 02:51:01

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-12-2007 18:57:59

thanks for the feedback on this
-we have voltage to the end of the coilwire where it becomes the center wire of the distributor---but cannot get a spark---and there is no spark at the points or voltage going out to the sparkplug wires.

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Jerry/MT

03-13-2007 22:13:31

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike polllet, 03-13-2007 02:51:01

The center wire of the coil is part of the secondary or high tension circuit. You'll want to hold the end of the center wire that comeas out of the coil about 3/16" away from a good ground while you turn on the key and try a start. You should geta FAT, BLUISH WHITE SPARK.

If you don't have at FAT, BLUISH WHTE SPARK, you need to check the voltage at the primary coil terminals. They are on either side of the coil "tower". Open the distributor and make sure the points are closed, turn on the key and with your voltmeter, measure the voltage at each terminal. The one going to the distributor, which must have the same sign as your battery ground, should read near zero volts. the one coming from the key switch should read near battery voltage IF you have no resistor in the primary circuit.
(Making sure that the polarity at the coil is correct is important. If it's not you'll lose nearly half of your spark energy.)
You don't want to see a spark at the points when you crank the engine over with the ignition switch on, so that observation is good. Check your primary ignition circuit with the ignition on from the battery to the key to the coil to the distributor with your voltmeter and see if you can find a point where the voltage is less than battery voltage. You'll again need to have the points closed. When you find that point, the component upsteam of that is the problem.

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mike a. tenn.

03-13-2007 03:41:19

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike polllet, 03-13-2007 02:51:01

hey mike...sounds to me like you may have a bad set of points or a bad condenser. have you tried replacing these? remember also that you can buy bad points and condensers. i have and it'll drive you nuts tryin' to figure out why they don't work. if you buy a new set and that don't fix it all you end up with is a spare set of points and condenser which you'll eventually need later anyway, so it isn't like you've wasted money trying it.

-mike

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mike pollet

03-12-2007 05:56:30

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-11-2007 21:34:20

thanks tractor mechanics-thats the detailed information i needed! I love this place

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mike a. tenn.

03-11-2007 10:49:50

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Re: TO 20 overhaul in reply to mike pollet , 03-11-2007 10:31:07

remove the plug, put the plug wire back on it, hold spark plug electrode on your tongue, turn over engine. ok...just kidding! ground the elecrode on the block and turn the engine over while watching for spark at spark plug. if no spark there, open distributor cap, remove rotor button and cover, turn engine over and watch for sparking at points. if no spark at points, you'll probably need that voltage tester to see if you're getting power to the coil or thru the ignition switch.

-mike

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