sleeve removal tactics;
1. beat the sleeves out from the bottom with a hardwood stick or 1X2 to clear the crank, & as big a mallet as you can swing while laying on your back. That works, but can be rather exhausting, and you risk beating your brains out when the hammer bounces back, gravity is NOT working in your favor.
2. Use a ~5#-10# slide hammer from the top, with a plate across the bottom of the sleeve. Don't waste your time with one of those smaller 2# bodyworking slide hammers. The bottom plate has to be the same diameter as the sleeve O.D., no larger, or it will catch on the bottom of the block. Plate doesn't have to be an actual circle, it could just be a piece of flat stock, maybe 1/4" thick, 1 1/2" or so wide, and ground on the ends to have the same arc as the sleeve diameter.
3. use a bottle jack, with that stick of wood and jack them out of the bottom of the block. If the sleeves are stuck tight, you may lift the front end of the tractor off the ground rather than push the sleeves out though. But it's easy & worth a try. Combined with #2 above, it usually works with enough effort.
4. If you have an air compressor & a handheld air hammer/chisel, that will pop the sleeves right out... but be VERY careful, one slip and you could easily damage your block or crank. Turn your air pressure down and work your way up so you have better control of the air hammer. Use the appropriate tool or extensions in the hammer so you are punching, rather than chiseling & you are well clear of the crank. Use a plate across the bottom of the sleeve and hammer on that, that way you get even load on the sleeve, and less likely to slip and damage the block.
5. make a puller with a piece of 3" pipe & allthread, and a couple pieces of metal plate for the top & under the sleeve. Pic below is of mine. I used stainless pipe, 'cus that's what I had. Make sure the ends are cut square and smooth so you don't damage the deck when you pull the sleeves. Mine was just longer than the sleeve so the sleeve could be pulled up into the pipe. That shouldn't be necessary, once the sleeves are popped loose from 50 years of rust/sludge & dried out O-rings that are holding them in place, they should pull right out by hand. Don't forget the sleeves have to be removed up out the top of the block. They have a lip & can't be pushed down thru the bottom of the block. Don't mess around with heating-up or torching the sleeve to try to loosen them up. Shouldn't be necessary, and you risk cracking the block if you get carried away. The metal casting between the cylinders on the top of the block is actually fairly thin and easy to crack if you get too physical with it. George
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