dj...,
keep in mind the sleeves HAVE to be removed up thru the top of the block. It has a lip on it & tappered so you can't push it down thru the bottom of the block.I've seen pictures of sleeve pullers using a 5# slide hammer, with a flat plate on the bottom of the sleeve. The plate needs cut/ground to be the same OD as the sleeve so it will not catch on the bottom of the block.
My old sleeves were super-stuck... judging from the nasty inards of the block, I'd guess a bunch of block sealer type stuff had been run thru it. I nearly beat my brains out trying the big hammer & oak stick method from under the tractor, and the slide hammer method from the top (the manual makes it sound soooo easy). I ended-up making a sleeve puller using a piece of 3" pipe (about the same length as the sleeve) sitting over the sleeve on top the block. I used ~ 1/2" all-thread thru the pipe & sleeve and thru a piece of plate steel on the bottom of the sleeve. Had another piece of plate on top the 3" pipe, with a hole for the threaded rod, and a nut to tighten it down to pull the sleeve. The sleeve pulls right up into the 3" pipe on my Z120, don't know the OD on a Z129 sleeve, I'm gusssing it is about the same. Probably used 1/8" or 3/16 plate, it don't have to be heavy. I torqued down the "sleeve puller" to put some pressure on the sleeve, then wacked the bottom plate with a stick/hammer. Worked like a charm. Once I got started, I had all 4 sleeves out in ~30 minutes. Once the seal is broken on the old sleeve, it should just pull right out of the block. If you do the pipe method, make sure your pipe is cut square and even & no burrs so you get even pressure around the sleeve & don't ding-up the top of the block. The metal web on top the block between the cylinders isn't that heavy. Don't get too heavy handed on the top side of the block or you could potentially crack that web. That's the typical place blocks also crack from overheating or feezing also. Good luck! George
|
