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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Rebuilt carb.. not quite right..

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slideways

01-02-2007 08:34:17




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Well i put a new manifold on the TE20 this weekend. Also rebuilt the carb which was like full of sand inside. Changed fuel filters and put a new exhaust on. I have alot of sediment in my fuel tank and already changed the fuel filter once since i had it running. I still feel like its a fuel starvation problem in that i cant get it to idle or rev up easily when i pull the throttle. I started the base mixture at 7/8 and the power mix at 1 3/8 and adjusted from there with little results. It will idle somewhat but it is chugging and coughing.. i didnt drive it around but it seems to want to stall under a load.

At first it wouldnt run worth anything until i realized there was an open tapped hole in my new manifold. So i put a bolt in to seal that. When i remove the drain on the carb it comes out in a steady stream but its not very heavy. I put a new needle/seat, gaskets, and throttle shaft in as well as blew out all the ports in the carb. I didnt touch the float height or anything.

Any ideas?
Thanks

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Irv ( Ia)

01-04-2007 17:01:19




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 Re: Rebuilt carb.. not quite right.. in reply to slideways, 01-02-2007 08:34:17  
I just had another thought on your problem. That hole you plugged with a bolt, I think is actually a tapered hole made for a 1/4" pipe plug. Mine went in almost too far but seemed to finally tighten up. A bolt might leak a little air that will mess up your idle, and is not good for your valves at pulling speed.



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gshadel

01-02-2007 13:50:17




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 Re: Rebuilt carb.. not quite right.. in reply to slideways, 01-02-2007 08:34:17  
Your float gap should be 9/32 " measured from the bowl gasket to the nearest edge of the float. Measure the float gap ~1/2 way down the side of the float, not up by the needle valve pivot. It's critical for a good running engine, you should check it.

Sounds like you should consider pulling your gas tank and cleaning it out real good, and checking the shut-off valve, fuel line & elbow strainer in the carb. inlet for restrictions. It doesn't sound like your fuel flow is up to par.

The engine idle is 400-500 rpm. The idle mix screw only affects running in that range, and with the throttle closed. When you get much above that, the mixture is being handled by the power mix screw. Use a portable tach to check your RPMs if possible. Adjust the idle stop screw (thats the stop for the throttle shaft, not the mix screw) first to get your idle speed in range, then adjust the idle mix screw for best(fastest) running. Might have to adjust idle speed & mix back & forth a couple times to get them both lined out.


Your mix adjust screws are set right. I recommend leaving them alone until you check your float gap & make sure your sand problem is flushed out.

Your poor running, while probably related to fuel delivery, don't sound that much different from poor spark, or a timing problem. Have you checked those?

I have installed one of those new manifolds and agree they are darn difficult to tighten down a few of those nuts! You can check for gasket leaks by squirting some WD 40 around the gasket while running and listening for a temporary change in engine speed.

Sorry for the long email, long distance troubleshooting is tough.

George

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Irv (Ia)

01-02-2007 11:24:56




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 Re: Rebuilt carb.. not quite right.. in reply to slideways, 01-02-2007 08:34:17  
I'm assuming you got one of the repro manifolds available. I got one of those too and if yours is like mine, it was a bear to put on and get the nuts tight. The casting is much thicker than the original and leaves virtually no room to get the wrench on the nuts. Mine was missing on idle and I found out that the two center nuts weren't tight enough. I pulled it back off and about an hour with a air die grinder and a carbide burr combined with a ground down box end wrench took care of that problem. You have to be very cautious when doing that thought and not make an area too thin. I put it back on and it runs just fine.

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Gerald J.

01-02-2007 15:04:14




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 Re: Rebuilt carb.. not quite right.. in reply to Irv (Ia), 01-02-2007 11:24:56  
I put an import manifold on my MF-135 a few years ago. There was no way I could get the 3/8" thread nuts on, so I opened up some 5/16" nuts and tapped them 3/8" and used a half inch socket with a thin wall and that worked.

Gerald J.



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Gerald J.

01-02-2007 08:48:33




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 Re: Rebuilt carb.. not quite right.. in reply to slideways, 01-02-2007 08:34:17  
Float height affects mixture more than mixture adjustments at some speeds.

When adjusting the mixtures, the governor will lead you astray. Its best to start with the idle while holding the throttle plate closed against the governor's tendency to open it. Then adjust for the fastest idle. The high speed jet is best adjusted under load, but second best is adjusting it for best runing and best accelerating.

You can use the governor for an indicator for both adjustments, adjusting for minimum throttle opening as the governor compensates for the carburetor efficiency. But idle adjustments work best with the throttle plate all the way closed so only the idle circuit feeds fuel.

The two adjustments do interact. Changing one means changing the other.

There's likely a screen on the fuel inlet adapter. Did you clean that? I've seen those so clogged they wouldn't pass air at 60 psi, much less gravity fed fuel. And I've seen the gas line so clogged with varnish the engine would only idle.

Gerald J.

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