Tractor runs great - for about an hour?!

I replaced the obvious things, but wonder if the governor starts to try and flood it, or the timing backs up like a cold weenie...I can't figure? ...and my M-F dealer wasn't able to do anything: they only did the standard static setting.

Perhaps you've seen this before? 'Appreciate the help. I love the tractor, but damn...

jim
Salisbury Maryland

Rather that trying a shotgun approach to finding the difficulty, when the tractor stops next time, quickly pull the center wire out of the distributor and, hold it near a good ground and try a start.
If you have a a FAT, BLUISH WHITE SPARK, the problem is not with the ignition. If you have a weak blue, orangey, or yellowish spark, check the primary ignition circuit very thoroughly. Could be a bad coil, dirty, loose connections, dirty corrodded or maladjusted points,bad resistor (if you have one), bad key switch( yes, key switches go bad, etc. ) I think the best way to check out the primary ignition system is with a voltmeter, if you have have one. With the key switch on,you should have near battery voltage to the coil, points opened or closed, UNLESS you have a reisitor in the circuit. In the case of a resistor, you'll have near battery voltage to the resistor and then 4-5 volts down stream of the resistor to the coil IF THE POINTS ARE CLOSED. If the points are open, you'll have near battery voltage all the way to distributor side of the coil. If the points are closed, the distributor side of the points will be near zero volts. Run the diagnostic tests both ways (points open and points closed). If you can't run them both ways, then do the points closed tests. An easy test of the key switch is to clip a jumper wire across it and if your spark returns, big and bluish white, that's your problem. Make these measurements and record the results. If you don't have an analog vlolt meter., you can get a cheap meter for under $10 and it'll serve you well for trouble shooting.
Personally, I think your problem is a bad coil or restricted fuel delivery but conduct all these check systematically and record the results and find the root cause of your problem. Don't start changing components until you are sure of what you need to change. If you have a hard time interpreting the results of these checks, or don't understand anything I've said,get back here and we'll help you.

The coil or condenser could be a problem, then you can test them by pulling a plug wire and holding it so it can spark to the engine block or head. If the spark is thin and yellow, its the condenser, if its just weak its the coil. Usually coils temporarily heal when cooled, condensers may heal but more often they don't.

Gerald J.

I've got a V-meter, so now I know what to do with it. Thanks all. I'll let you know what I stumble upon. Thanks again.

Jim