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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TEA 20 woes...

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corey f.

12-18-2006 03:15:07




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Hi i recently did a tune up on my tea 20 replacing the coil, points, condenser, cap, and wires. It ran beutifully for about an hour then shut down on me in mid job. I am very baffled. there was plenty of gas (cause i know someone might ask) and when it shut down on me it was a clean break as apposed to a stuttard stop which might lead to someone believing it was a carb problem. any help on this problem will be greatly appreciated.

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Ken Marshall - Utah

12-23-2006 22:25:13




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 03:15:07  
The more I did to my TO35 the worse it ran. Good quick start-up but after a few minutes it would start to sputter. I could keep it going by pulling the choke out - but no power. I had put on a fuel filter just ahead of the carb that was about 3/4 " in diameter. Finally figured out that I was not getting enough fuel. Scrapped the small filter and put a larger one on. Voilla! Old Fergy runs pretty good now. "Flat rock" fuel flow is the thing. The "dribbles" just won't work.

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corey f.

12-18-2006 16:11:01




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 03:15:07  
just wanted to give a quick follow up and a Big thanks! I went back at the tea with the info you provided. I first checked the lines into and out with my volt meter and all read pretty stronge. I then tried to get a spark as you told me from the coil line but could not see one ( im guessing i didnt find a good enough ground through all the rust and paint my fergie has collected over the years).So i rechecked and set the points which appeared to me just a little further apart than my manual specified. I then went over to the carb and tried to remove the screw on the bottom of the bowl but found it very tight almost seized so i didnt want to push it too much so i tapped the bowl lightly instead in hopes i had loosened a stuck float. All that said, I then turned the ignition on hit the start button and with a little coaxing from the choke she fired up! Now it seems to run fine again and i hope will remain running. I did notice that the carb is covered with gas varnish and am thinking i might need to replace the carb altogether. Thanks again for all your help and if you might have anything else to add i would gladly accept the advice.

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JerryMT

12-18-2006 21:48:06




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 16:11:01  
I don't know why everybody always wants to "go get a new carb"! Make sure that you have a good spark (fat bluish white) and adequate fuel flow( like a cow peein' on a flat rock) before you mess with the carb. 95% of so called "carb problems" have a root cause of poor ignition system performance or inadequate fuel flow! if you have anymore problems, find a good ground on that machine of yours and check the spark like I told you to. Don't go dinken' around changin' stuff. Find out what the root cause of your problem BEFORE you change anything. That's the best advice I can give you.

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phil(va)

12-18-2006 17:27:12




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 16:11:01  
Naah... don't replace the carb. Rebuild it. Replacement carbs are expensive, and rebuild kits are cheap, and the experience will help you get to know the carb. There isn't much to it, only an hour or so, including removing and replacing it on the tractor. Have plenty of carb cleaner handy, and a deep well 3/8 socket.



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corey f.

12-19-2006 04:52:52




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to phil(va), 12-18-2006 17:27:12  
After reviewing your latest responses and also looking into the cost of a new (rebuilt) carb ($240 plus a $45 core charge) I am going to say you are right again. those of us with the lack of experience often try to replace our ignorance with the good old dollar bill. I originally bought this tractor out of neccessity with our wedding gift money to plow our long gravel driveway, and it has fit the bill well. The unexpected benifit of this purchase however is the hobby of her maintenance and history of her maker, both very interesting indeed. Now, I'm off in search of that ever elusive blue - white spark and a cow peeing on a flat stone... To be continued...

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Jerry/MT

12-18-2006 11:48:28




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 03:15:07  
I would recommend that you start out by checking the spark. I'm going to asume that you set the points correctly since it ran OK. if you're not sure that you did, check 'em again.
Pull the center wire out of the distributor, hold it near a good ground and with the tractor out of gear and the key on, try a start. You should have a fat bluish white spark. Not blue, orange or yellowish, it has to be bluish white. If you don't have a fat bluish white spark, start checking the primary ignition circuit.The primary circuit goes from the battery, through the key switch to the coil and to the distributor.If you have a volt meter, check the voltage at each node. You should have near battery voltage to the coil unless you have a resistor between the key switch and the coil.In that case you should have near battery voltage to the resistor, and IF the points are closed, you will have around 4-4.5 volts at the coil. If the points are open, you will nave near battery voltage. The voltgae between the coil will be near battery voltage IF the points are open and near zero IF the points are closed. Check your destributor for shaft/bushing wear making sure the points are closed and pushing radial(from the side) on the distributor shaft. The points should remain motionless when you do this. The allowable play is ~0.002". If you see a lot of motion at the point or if they open, then the shaft/bushing needs rebuilding.

If you do have a fat bluish white spark, check the fuel flow to the carburetor by opening the bowl drain at the bottom of the carb and holding a container under it and opening the tank valve, the fuel should gush out CONTINUOUSLY like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If you have any intermitancy in the flow, something is restricting the fuel delivery. Check the fuel inlet filter at the carb and the screen in the sediment bowl Also check the tank vent. Sometimes the floats will hang up and a sharp rap with a wooden block on the side of the carb can loosen the floats. Do these checks systematically(one at a time) and record the results. 90-95% of these no start problems are the caused by faults in the primary igniton circuit of the fuel delivery system.

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Jerry/MT

12-18-2006 11:53:22




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to Jerry/MT, 12-18-2006 11:48:28  
Don't to forget to check the voltage across the key switch. With the key switch on, the voltage on each side of the switch should be near battery voltage. Key switches often fail. Another way to check, jump across the key switch with a jumper wire and if you go from a no spark to a spark condition, that's your problem.



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HL

12-18-2006 08:46:34




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 03:15:07  
Check coil with multimeter to see if it has failed. May have "open" circuit.



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chuck130

12-18-2006 04:26:13




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 Re: TEA 20 woes... in reply to corey f., 12-18-2006 03:15:07  
Check your carb main jet. What happened to me once, when I installed the needle (the large one at the bottom/back of the carb)it seated with the jet. When I backed out the needle (1 to 2 turns according to the manual), the jet backed out with it. In other words, the jet wasn't installed tight enough into the carb body. It would not start - not even a cough or sputter.



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