TO30 was stalling under load fixed now

1. I replaced the coil. No change.
2. I inspected the wires, cap, rotor, plugs, all seemed fine. I verified there was gas, yes.
3. I ordered a carb rebuild kit from ytmag.com. I rebuilt the carb.
4. I physically removed the fuel line, the sediment bowl assembly and blew them out with compressed air.

I mowed for 1 hour, 30 minutes of it was in high grass and no stalling, or any other problem. So I guess I am all fixed up.

One thing though, I had to re-use my fuel nozzle as the one it came with did not match mine. All the other parts matched. Also, there were parts leftover from the carb kit. But everything I took off was replaced by a new part sans the fuel nozzle. Oh well. It runs now.

BONUS: the throttle range works fine now. Before, it seemed no to operate properly, surging high at times, and touchy. Now it uses the full range like I would expect it to.

THANK YOU everyone for the help. I am guessing that the problem was fuel delivery. And/Or it could have been the condenser.

Next Time I do a carb rebuild I will order just the needle/seat. All of my parts showed no wear or damage, but I replaced them anyway.

The flare nut on the steel fuel line that connects to the fuel elbow on the carb -- It is rounded off and I cannot get the fitting tight enough - it drips fuel. It has been like this since I bought it a few months ago.

Q1: Where can I get the part (fuel line with flare nuts)?

Q2: If the part is unavailable, where do I get the flare tools/ lare nuts/steel line? It is a double flare, right?

Would it be okay to cut the steel fuel line, replace the flare nut, and patch the cut line with rubber fuel line and clamps?

Better you try a good auto parts store or three for preflared tubing, such as brake tubing and use somee brass adapters to hook the brake line to the fuel line connections. Sometimes NAPA has a good collection of those parts.

Gerald J.