Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
:

TO-30 Front Axle Pin and Bushing Questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
K. E. Siladi

08-06-2006 17:35:59




Report to Moderator

Trying to re-assemble the front end after my engine rebuild. There is a lot of play not only between the pin and bushing, but front to back also. And I mean bushing (singular). The manual I notice, calls out for 2. Is the fact that there is only one bushing on mine account for the front to back movement? (I'm not sure how it is supposed to work.) Also how does one get the pin out? Is it pressed in? The manual shows using some sort of a slide hammer to remove it. I've been beating it from the outside and thru the inside and it hasn't budged (lots of PB blaster soaking it). Can anybody offer a suggestion?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
K. E. Siladi

08-07-2006 17:44:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO-30 Front Axle Pin and Bushing Questions in reply to K. E. Siladi, 08-06-2006 17:35:59  
John, thanks for the reply. As soon as I got home tonight I started heating the pin and surrounding carrier with a torch. After 2 tries and almost 30-40 minutes of heating I was able to beat it out (it was rusted in good). The bushing was partially missing also. I'll clean up the hole and measure it carefully against your dimensions and order the appropriate set. I think I understand about the drag links taking up the movement and the thrust so I won't worry about the forward and back sliding. Thanks for your help.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John (UK)

08-09-2006 09:37:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO-30 Front Axle Pin and Bushing Questions in reply to K. E. Siladi, 08-07-2006 17:44:12  
If part of the Bush is worn away then I think you may find the hole in the axle beam has been worn oval and will give no support to the Bush when it is fitted.(If it is badly worn, new ones are available from the later tractor, but they fit, using the later flanged bushes) The Radius Rods, (the two thick rods from axle to footrest) take all the thrust from the axle, the Bush is needed to be in good order to stop the wheels trying to be pushed rear-wards, this alters the castor angle of the steering and makes it heavy to steer. You should notice a big difference in the steering when you have replaced the Pin and Bush. If left worn the Pin and Bush will allow the axle to hit the bottom hose connection on the radiator and break it, should the left front wheel pick up for any reason. You should also check the toe-in of the steering, with the drop arms from the steering box both over the footrest, the front wheels should toe in 1/8". Just slacken the clamps on the tie rods holding the steering joints and turn one way or the other to adjust.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John (UK)

08-07-2006 08:54:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO-30 Front Axle Pin and Bushing Questions in reply to K. E. Siladi, 08-06-2006 17:35:59  
The forward and back movement is ok, it is there for when the track is adjusted, all the thrust is taken on the Radius Rods. The bushes in the later ones have a flange on one end and are thicker and you need two per tractor. S42621 plain, no collar.1.76"ID x 1.91"OD x 1.50" long.
S40107 with collar, 1.76"ID x 2.06" OD x .82" long. and you need two per axle beam.
so you need to measure the hole in the axle to see if the later one will fit or if you have to use the earlier type.
The axle pin S60049 is 4.25" long x 1.75" dia. so the pin is the same for both types of bush, you just have to check which bush is right for your axle beam.
To remove the pin it was just a case of prying it out using a tyre iron under the elongated part that the bolt goes through to secure it, but no doubt it is seized in the carrier by now, I would say that the easiest way now is to remove the carrier from the engine and knock the pin out from the engine side, using something about the same diameter. It is just a sliding fit, no press involved. The collared bushes if they will fit, (and because of the collar) will take up some of the forward and back movement.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy