TO30 running poorly ammeter Question

Today: I poured in fresh gas, got on the tractor, turned on the fuel, hit start, little choke, started right up with no fuss. I mowed for 20 minutes before it started to act up, which was what it did before as well the last two times I mowed. Anyway, after 20 minutes it started acting like it was going to die. Running up and stall, run up and stall, but stayed barely running.

I let it cool and it ran for a few more minuted, then same thing. I got so mad! I wish I could keep a cooler head when my machines give me trouble. This time when it died it wouldn't even turn over to restart. Then I started thinking about the ammeter how it is always at dead zero.

So I looked at all of the wire connections, everywhere. The wire from the 12volt alternator was fine all the way to the ammeter. Then I noticed: The wire from the ammeter to the terminal was not connected to anything. (the terminal where the battery wire connects to the starter -- is that a relay?) So my brain says to me: how will the battery recharge if the wire from the alt is basically disconnected? Obviously I have drained the battery and that is likely why it won't turn over.

So here is my question: Could that be why my engine has been running rough? Will my tractor run on a dead battery?

If it will run on a dead battery with the alt disconnected, then I am on to chasing fuel and ignition problems.

I am sorry for my ignorance, I am not a very good troubleshooter. And thank you in advance for any replies.

Chris

By the way...Jerry/MT that was a beautiful explaination of the steps to go through to track those problems down. Well done!!!

Griz

I guess I was confused because a lawnmower or a dirtbike or a gas trimmer all work without a battery. But they get voltage to the coil from a magneto, right?

I suppose the next step is to reconnect the alternator, charge my battery, and see if the alternator is functional. The ammeter will tell me that, right? But what should the ammeter read if the alternator is charging properly?

If the alternator is working properly and you have a good ammeter, when you start up, you should see a a positive charge of some magnitude that eventually goes to just slightly charging as the battery power used to start is restored and then you are just making up the supply to the ignition circuit. Mine goes to about 8 amps and then to about 2-3 amps, but I'm not a real believer in absolute the accuracy of my ammeter.

Poor running is another matter altogether. can you describe your ignition system a bit. Does it have a "true" 12V coil that has an internal resistor? Does it have a 6V coil with a resistor? What are the symptoms of the "poor running" you are having?

My description of rough running: It runs well when you start it and it does fine under load for 15-20 minutes and then it stalls almost completely. Then it runs up to normal rpm almost and then back to almost a stall (repeat chorus [lol]). BTW I looked at the governor while this was going on and it was not moving. I have had a mower with governor troubles before and it did hunt and surge continuously (governor going back and forth). It didn't run fine for 20 minutes and Then start hunting - it hunted and surged from the time you started it and put it under load.

I am suspicious of ignition troubles because as I mentioned earlier: the alternator wire was unattached this whole time I have owned it. So it has been running on battery alone with no recharges in between runnings. My theory was as the battery gets lower, the ignition became weaker, thus poor running.

I will test that theory after the battery is recharged and I hook the alternator back up.

But before you do any parts swapping, I would like you to run the tractor til it stops or starts running poorly. Then pull the center lead out of the distributor capand hold it near a good ground and try a start. You should have a big, fat bluish spark if your ignition system is up to snuff. If you don't have a fat, bluish spark(Skinny blue sparks or yellowish sparks don't count. It's got to be a fat, bluish, spark.)then your problem is in the primary electrical system. It's can be the key switch, the wiring connections, the coil, the points (urned points, point opening incorrect, etc). Check those components out. Feell along the primary circuit for anything that is hot indicating a high resistance.
If your spark is fat and bluis, then suspect the fuel delivery. These old tractors were parked out in the back forty and collected a lot of crap and corruption in the fuel tank. Open the fuel valve, get a container to hold under the carb and remove the drain plug from the carb fuel bowl. Fuel should continuously gush out like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it doesn't, your fuel delivery system could be the culprit. Check the vent hole in the gas cap, the "secret filter" in the carb inlet fuel elbow and the screen in the sediment bowl as well as a kinked fuel line. If they are ok, drain the tank and pul the fuel valve out and checkthe fuel intake for restriction. The other possibility is a hung float. Rap the carb sharpley with a block of wood and see if you get fuel flow.
I really think that your problem will be found to be ignition related but I've tried to cover allthe bases in case you might have a fuel problem also. Good Luck and let us know what you find.

However... Now that the Battery is charged. I am getting nothing when I try to start it. Not a click, not a humm, not a sound (from the starter). So I started with one problem and now I have two! How can I bypass everything to see if my starter has gone out first. The battery seems fine.

I pulled the carb drain plug, a lot of gas came out steadily.

I ran it and about 20 minutes into mowing it pulled it's shennanigans (wanting to stall, surging down and up - barely running). By the way, before it started to act up, I paid careful attention and the governor seemed to be working just fine (I had thought I might have gov. troubles before) And the first 20 minutes before it started to act up it seemed to run flawlessly.

So back to the 20 minute mark and the acting up: I got off and got some pliers to hold that center wire off the coil and looked at the spark as you suggested, It was a pale fuzzy yellow, fat, but still very yellow, not blue at all. Also I touched the coil. It was HOT. Very very hot. So hot I couldn't keep my finger on it. If coils are only $12 I think I should just buy one to rule that out. I still have no idea if it is a 6v or 12v.

Any suggestions?

I guess I will be taking the fuel lines apart now and then if that isn't it I guess a condenser and points?

You had poor spark when it acted up. My advice would be to do the points and condensor first and check the distributor for wear and function. Then go to the fuel delivery system.