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TE 20 gearbox lockup

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Jack

10-09-2000 16:07:55




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1953 2085 gearbox locked up in second gear Tried to move the linkage with a screwdriver no luck. Do I have to dismantle the steering cover etc to get at this. What do I break the steering joints away with. What causes this problem




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Keith

10-10-2000 21:18:37




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 Re: TE 20 gearbox lockup in reply to Jack , 10-09-2000 16:07:55  
The problem you have is the sliding fork has not moved far enough to disengage with one gear and engage in the other. The transmission has three bars on top with sliding members attached to forks that slide the gears back and forth. The gearshift ball fits into slots on these sliding members. The ball is hardened while the sliding forks are cast metal. On my 1948 TE-20 the middle fork that 3rd and 4th gear are on is made of cast brass. It was worn quite thin, almost to the point of breaking through the walls of the slot. The other sliding forks are cast iron and were also worn quite a bit. I used a TIG welder to weld up the slots and then ground and filed them down. The shifting now is firm and sure. I wouldn't recommend welding on the ball of the shifter as it is not addressing the real problem of wear or failure. The unfortunate problem with the TE is that the whole steering box assembly is part of the cover plate. I used a rod end fork to separate my steering arm from the draglink. This usually destroys the rubber boot on the rod end. You might try just pulling the whole column straight up in the air with a chainfall and thereby not have to remove the draglinks from the steering arms. Be careful as the whole assembly is made of cast aluminum as well as the transmission case. You don't want it to fall as it will most likely break. Also, there is oil in the steering gear box that is sealed by a plate on the bottom of the cover plate. It may start leaking out. Once the cover plate is off then you will be able to see what the problem is. If the fork slots are worn out then they will need to be removed. The cast iron ones on each side can be taken out without removing gears by sliding the bars they slide on forward. The fork in the middle is another story. To remove it requires transmission disassembly as it moves gears down in the bottom of the transmission and is blocked by the gear assemblies on top of it. Welding on the forks in place would be possible, but the grinding down operation would have to prevent grit from getting in the transmission. If it sounds like a big job, it is. Fifty year old tractors have thier points of wear and tear. When I got mine I nearly completely disassembled it and went through and fixed and replaced what was worn out. In the long run it pays off as one is not under the thing fixing something everytime its used. My way of looking at it anyway. Good luck and hope you don't have a major fix to get her back in operation.

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rod

10-09-2000 17:07:49




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 Re: TE 20 gearbox lockup in reply to Jack , 10-09-2000 16:07:55  
My tea used to stick in gears finally the brass fork broke I had no first or second gear you have to take off the trans cover first to see. There was a steel plate behind the shift rods that had to be removed then the broken fork could be slid off and changed. email me direct if you find it is broken I can get you through the procedure. First I would take off the trans cover. If the shifter ball is worn or the slots are worn you can weld on it and then grind it down to fit.

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