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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more informat

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bryan86

05-16-2006 15:00:44




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I know people told me that I need to drill a hole on the gear ring and then it should be able to pop off. If not use a hacksaw and cut a little more until it comes off. Then i heat the other one making sure I have the teeth facing the right way before placing it back on the flywheel. I understand all of that.

What I want to know is there anything else I should be alerted to. Do I have to replace any gaskets, if so, which ones? Does there need to be any oil drained from the tractor? I want to cover my grounds. If someone happens to have a repair manual excert to tell this Dummy what to do, I would appreciate it very much.

Precautions I have taken are, removing battery, gas tank, raditor, air cleaner, starter, tie rod and steering arms. I have block under the tracotr on both sides. I actually have the rear of the tractor all on blocks with wheels off the ground. I figured the front end would be lighter and easier to move.

Like I said, any more usefull advice would help. Thanks to all who respond!!!!

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todd in michigan

05-18-2006 16:57:14




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to bryan86, 05-16-2006 15:00:44  
When I split my TO-30 I replaced the flywheel ring gear. As I rember I used a hammer and a steel punch and just tapped it off. A lot easier than drilling or cutting. Mine came off really easy just working my way around and tapping every few inches. when I put my new one on I heated it in my oven to i think about 200deg F or so. I literily ran it out to my barn and put it on the flywheel. It fit so loose that I thought something was wrong, but after a few minutes it cooled and shrunk to fit tight. While I had mine apart I also replaced the rear main oil seal, cluch, pressure plate, and trans input shaft seal. All rather cheap and easy to replace while you already have the tractor apart. Do it now and you might never have to split the tractor again, atleast I hope I never have to again. It really wasent that hard to do but just a pain in the butt to do in an unheated barn in the middle of winter. The hardest part of the whole thing was the last 2 inches when you push the 2 halves together. DO NOT force the input shaft into the clutch disk. When you get the input shaft splines lined up with clutch it will slide together effortlessly.

hope this helps.

Todd

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Yings02

05-30-2006 15:55:35




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to todd in michigan, 05-18-2006 16:57:14  

I noted your comment about doing other maintenance while things are torn apart. It makes sense. You mentioned the "transmission input shaft seal". Are there any aftermarket seals for older MH? It looks to be brass on my MH Pacer and I remember seeing shavings that looked concerning prior to sandblasting. Any advise for a newbe.

Bryan



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dfitch

05-17-2006 05:29:49




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to bryan86, 05-16-2006 15:00:44  
You don't memtion what model tractor you are working on. Some models have a lip on the back of the flywheel to hold the ring gear in place.
If you don't have the lip pay close attention to where the old ring gear is positioned on the flywheel and try and get the new one to that same point. If you have the lip the ring gear is installed on the front of the flywheel but if you don't have the lip I think the ring gear installs from the rear of the flywheel. After putting the flywheel back on its probably a good idea to install the starter and make sure the starter drive is going to be able to engage the ring gear when it is operated. If you don't have the "lip" your old ring gear may have been driven back by the starter and was in the wrong
position and could be what caused it to fail in the first place.

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Jerry/MT

05-16-2006 21:48:03




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to bryan86, 05-16-2006 15:00:44  
Make sure you put a 2x4 between the block and the front axle housing so the motor doesn't rotate around the front axle pin when you pull the engine/front axle assembly away from the rear end assembly.



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John (UK)

05-16-2006 18:43:37




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to bryan86, 05-16-2006 15:00:44  
Well you have done most of the right things except getting the rear wheels off the floor, it is much easier refitting the engine if they are on the ground and then it is more flexible as you can move the rear end slightly, side to side to get the engine back. No need to drain any oil, no gaskets required except maybe on manifold if you have taken the exhaust off. you disconnect the steering rods at the rear end and fold them over back-wards out of the way, the Radius rods are better left on then you can wheel the engine out and back in like a wheel barrow, unless you have some lifting gear to do it, but thats how we did it. I do have the information you need already in an Information sheet, email me at:- fergusontractors(at)tiscali.co.uk
tell me what you need (coz I will have forgotten) and I will send it to you by return with anything else I think you may need....John

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gerard

05-17-2006 15:04:07




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to John (UK), 05-16-2006 18:43:37  
I think John meant disconnect the steering rods at the front (axle) end. That's what I do, anyway.



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John (UK)

05-17-2006 15:49:32




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 Re: Replacing flywheel starter gear/Need more info in reply to gerard, 05-17-2006 15:04:07  
Hi Clifford, Yes I did mean at the front end and fold them backwards,....now why the hell did I write that????? must have been a senior moment again I think....lol
Have you ever seen anyone do that, disconnect at the back and then you have to follow them on the job, its awful, bad enough that you have to wheel the engine around with the Radius Rods but having to cope with the steering rods too, not advised.lol How are you doing anyway Clifford, we haven"t had a chat for a long time, things don"t change here very much, still pounding away at the keyboard although I am getting many more questions about the 35/65 tractors now. Did you see the pictures from London of the TE20 anniversary at Clarridge"s, being driven down the steps, if not, I do have them. I always wanted the original one of HF doing it but I could never get hold of it, so I am pleased I got it at last. One of the pictures is taken with a big MF tractor in the background and I was told that it cost �100,000 far cry from the cost of the TE20...Hope to hear from you ...John

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