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TO-35 dilema

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d hartman

09-18-2000 04:05:46




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While replacing the cam shaft in my Fergy, I came upon a problem. After getting the new cam gear on the shaft, and replacing the governor, the I&T manual says to torque the cam nut to 65-70 ft.lbs. It also says there should be .003-.007 clearance for the camshaft to thrust. Well, when you start drawing the gear closer to the thrust plate (which miced OK) in order to get even close to 65-70 ft.lbs.,the gear bottoms out on the shaft (or starts bending the governor plates and the thrust clearance goes to zero. It got so I had a hard time turning the cam shart by hand.I backed off the nut...until I had .0045 clearance for thrust (used a dial indicator I borrowed) and lock-tighted that nut right were it sat. The thing is ...now that gear can slide back & forth on the shaft that thrust clearance. I figured it was a better choice then tightening the nut to 65 ft.lbs. and having no room for growth when it gets hot. The only problem is the governor assembly (balls & retainer) that are between the gear and the nut are not very tight on the shaft, since the nut is not really pressing on them because of the .0045 clearance I left?????
Also, the replacement governor has an arrow on it to align the tab that pushes on the linkage that works back into the throttle. The instruction sheet says to point the arrow straight up...which puts the tab at about an 11 o'clock position. However the I&T manual says to put the tab at an 8 o'clock postion! I went with the instruction sheet that came with the replacement gov. putting the tab @ 11 o'clock. I don't know why?
I hope I did the right things putting this Fergy back together, I am no mechanic. Has anyone ran into these problems? Why didn't it go back together as per the book? Do you think I should run it like this? Should I have lock-tighted the gear on the shaft leaving the .003-.007 clearance, to keep the gear from moving, then I would have been able to tighten the nut to the right torque and locktighted it? These were all new parts I bought.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Fred Oh

09-20-2000 10:51:36




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 Re: TO-35 dilema in reply to d hartman, 09-18-2000 04:05:46  
DH, I'm gonna have to disagree with you on leaving the gear a little loose on the camshaft. I just replaced the nut on the cam on a TO-35 and it had ran a while without the nut holding the gear tight. For one thing, the cam moved back and forth in the gear and the light tap fit was lost between the cam and gear. Also the woodruff key wallows the keyway on the shaft and on the gear and you start getting slop in the gear train and losing timing accuracy. When the woodruff keyway is loose on the key, it becomes a major job to get the gear back on the cam without the key scooting out of the shaft and dropping. And guess where it will drop to. Right down into the oil pan and it takes a magnet and luck to get it out. Besides, it makes you awful nervous when it happens. Like the chef said when the rat fell in the stew. "Better luck next time"! Get back in there and fix it right. L8R----Fred

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Keith

09-19-2000 21:46:58




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 Re: TO-35 dilema in reply to d hartman, 09-18-2000 04:05:46  
You have an unusual problem and I believe something is out of alignment. I have a TE-20 that I went through the engine a couple of years ago and I put in a new cam. Mine does not have the Novi ball type governor, but that doesn't come into play on the thrust clearance of the cam. I assme that you removed the front plate on the engine, but did not pull the cam out when you replaced the timing gear on the cam. If this assumption is correct then I am leaning toward a possible hang up in the engine that is preventing the cam from moving forward as the gear is pulled onto the camshaft. The trust plate can be put on and the cam gear tightened down with the cam out of the engine. The clearance could be measured even then ( This is what I did on mine). The thrust plate should go on first and have a free fit on the camshaft threaded diameter. Then the cam gear should go on ( make sure its not on backwards) and pull up to a shoulder. There should be clearance left after doing this so that the thrust plate will still move freely. If this is not happening and the cam is still in the engine then something is binding it and not allowing it to pull forward. It might be good to pull the distributor and see if you can move the cam forward slightly, but not enough to pull it past the lifters. The governor plate on the front of the cam has no bearing on this as it is just tightened down by the cam nut. There also, were oversize timing gear sets made up for these tractors and the gear (your old one) would be stamped S-for standard, O-for oversize, and U-for undersize. This is explanied in the IT manual. If you have a gear that does not match then it may be binding tightly in the gear mesh and not allow the cam gear to pull up onto the camshaft. Look carefully at your old gears and the engine block near the camshaft to see if nonstandard gears were installed from the factory. As far as the projection on the governor cup I have no idea what it is used for other than to sling oil perhaps or to keep the cup from striking the engine front cover in case of failure. This is my two cents worth. Hopefully it will help. Good luck and keep us posted.

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