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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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painting

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Frank (afton, V

02-13-2006 09:26:24




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I am interested in painting my T020. I am uncertain if it is silver mist or metallic flint grey. Also how much paint should I buy. I am probably going to prime it with spray cans a bit at a time as I clean it up. Are most spray primers compatable with the paint.

Thanks

Frank




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J2

02-13-2006 18:50:27




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, VA), 02-13-2006 09:26:24  
Go visit the "Paint and Bodywork" forum...While they will generally be on the high end of the spectum, there are lots of tips... What you don't need is to put all that work into a good preparation and then use crappy paint and crappy application methods... BobinKy has a pretty good approach for the middle of the road... but I'd recommend that you should use a two part epoxy primer (it doesn't have isos), let it harden well beyond the recoat window, then after scuffing it with a scothbrite pad, coat that with acrylic enamel, or modified acrylic enamel, perhaps with hardeners, but stay away from any hardeners that have isos (iso-cyanates(sp))... The epoxy will seal the surface and actually be sufficient, then the color coat will be just that... the tisco paints are most likely alkyd enamel (the least costly paint) but that is what was on it from the Ferguson factory.... If you use paint with the isos, you can ruin you health if you don't have supplied air... one time exposure is all it might take and masks are not sufficient!.. All urethanes are two part paints with the deadly isos... Also, you will note that some are using rattle cans, which will have to do if you have no other choices, but that paint cannot keep my mailbox looking good for more than a year, so I really don't want to spend that much time sanding and scuffing to have to do it over in a couple years....

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Frank (Afton, VA)

02-14-2006 09:39:21




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 Re: painting in reply to J2, 02-13-2006 18:50:27  
Thanks for the heads ups. As a pulmonologist I have absolutely no desire to get anywhere near isocyanates.

Thanks

Frank



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Tom in NE

02-13-2006 16:59:00




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, VA), 02-13-2006 09:26:24  
Battleship gray. Harry Ferguson bought a whole bunch of the surplus gray paint after WWII ended. That's what the Fergies were painted with the first number of years.



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Jeff-oh

02-13-2006 10:17:55




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, VA), 02-13-2006 09:26:24  
Paint codes and a break down of what parts were what color are available at the FENA Site. Once there just click on the paint selections.



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mar from the fort

02-13-2006 09:48:38




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, VA), 02-13-2006 09:26:24  
If you've got a 20, then she is all grey.
Check out the paint codes on left column.
I think the silvers and the flint grey you are referring to are for the to 35's. I believe the 20's and 30's had shade of grey all their own.
More of a light battleship grey. Mark



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mark from the fort

02-13-2006 09:52:03




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 Re: painting in reply to mar from the fort, 02-13-2006 09:48:38  
Gray 652 DuPont MF Gray TP230 TISCO -But please wait until you hear from others.
These are off the paint codes from this site.
Flint grey is a different color!



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T

02-13-2006 15:06:54




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 Re: painting in reply to mark from the fort, 02-13-2006 09:52:03  
A gallon should do it all, cast & sheet metal.



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Frank (afton, Virginia)

02-13-2006 17:37:31




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 Re: painting in reply to T, 02-13-2006 15:06:54  
The guy at the paint store said urethane was the most durable paint. I told him I want to use spray can primer so I can prime as I clean it up. He said the spray cans are lacquer and lacquer is not as elastomeric as urethane and the two will seperate. He wanted to sell me the urethane primer which costs more than the paint.Then I went to Tractor Supply and all the paint is enamel.

I want the original color. I need something that will last on a working tractor and I'd like to be able to run her down Mainstreet on July 4th.

Can someone simplfy this for me?

Thanks

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SandyB@TN

02-14-2006 14:07:22




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, Virginia), 02-13-2006 17:37:31  
Just a safety note. Emron is Du Ponts urethane spray paint. With Emron you must have pressurized air to breathe. Full face mask and all that stuff. It is deadly, as in make you dead to breathe the vapors. I don't know anything about the urethane you are talking about, but thought I oughta give you a heads up. Somehow painting a tractor to make it look good and killing yourself at the same time makes me a little queasy.

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BobinKY

02-13-2006 18:01:53




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 Re: painting in reply to Frank (afton, Virginia), 02-13-2006 17:37:31  
I am in the process of painting my old TO 35 right now. I can sympathize with your idea of painting with balms as you go. Most on this site will poo poo that idea. I went to my local auto paint store and bought a set of HVLP guns (3 for $79) and hooked them up to my little Craftsman 30 gal 5 hp compressor. I bought the air pressure guage to go into the handle of the guns (appx. $5). I wire wheeled the frame and motor as best I could with a four inch grinder and cup brush. I washed everything down with prep-sol three times before painting. I then primed everything with acrylic primer before painting the acrylic enamel recommended in the FENA site. Now that I am doing the sheet metal, I went to my local Autozone and bought some metal-etch primer in balms. Whenever I get a part cleaned, I balm it with that stuff. I have painted a few parts with the acrylic paint right over the metal-etch primer and I am really please with the results. I am now banging the dents out of my fenders and hood and balming them with the metal-etch primer as I go along. I will scuff this primer with a scrubby before painting the acrylic paint, but I am very comfortable that it will turn out as good as the rest of the tractor. I am sure you will hear differing opinions on here, but it worked for me. The one thing I can warn you about, if the metal is cold you will get runs in the paint. My garage was 60 degrees for a while before I stopped painting and turned the heat on. The paint is very volatile and I could not run my open flame heater for a while. I got some runs in my instrument panel, but I got rid of them on the second coat. Hope this helps. Good luck and post some pictures when you are done.

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