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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Wireing question

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KSTEP

02-11-2006 10:05:02




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I had to rewire my to30 after someone helped me by taking all the wires off. I found a 12 volt wireing diagram on this forum and it is for using the shifter starter. at the Positive side of the VOLT not amp Meter I am getting 13.4 volts and on the negitive side I am getting 1.3 volts this is also what I have at the p2 and bat side of altenater and since the switch is on I get 1.3 at the resister and p1. Does this sound right to you I would have thought it would be more.

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Jim in OH

02-11-2006 10:21:22




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to KSTEP, 02-11-2006 10:05:02  
First of all.. using a voltmeter in place of an amp meter will not work wired the same way as an ampmeter... The ampmeter PASSES current, the volt meter BLOCKS current... To work correctly, I would expect that what was on the + AND - side of the amp meter to both be connected together on the + side of the voltmeter and the other side (-) of the volt meter to be grounded.. There are other ways to do it, but this is one... (and it assumes negative ground) Jim in OH

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KSTEP

02-11-2006 15:49:33




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to Jim in OH, 02-11-2006 10:21:22  
Well it worked and the tractor fired right up after setting for a year. I only have one problem now with the p1 wire hooked up the tractor wont shut off I have to choke it. With it unhooked it runs and shuts off fine. Can I run it ok without the p1 wire hooked up or does it have a purpose I dont know about.



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SandyB@TN

02-11-2006 16:55:07




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to KSTEP, 02-11-2006 15:49:33  
KSTEP.
P1 is the exiter for the alternator. Without it being hooked up, the alternator won't charge. What is happening now is that it is putting current back into your ignition. So when you cut off the ignition, it is still powered by the P1 terminal. You can put a 50 volt diode in the P1 wire. This will keep the P1 from powering your ignition.



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KSTEP

02-11-2006 17:00:58




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to SandyB@TN, 02-11-2006 16:55:07  
I tried the diode and it got really hot. It still would not shut off unless I disconnected the p1. Could I have hooked it up wrong and if so can you tell me the direction or proper way?



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SandyB@TN

02-11-2006 17:41:24




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to KSTEP, 02-11-2006 17:00:58  
Sounds like you may have gotten the diode installed in the wrong direction. Diodes let the current flow in only one directon. You want the current to flow from the ignition switch to P1. The diode is there to keep the "back flow" of current from getting back to the switch. I would try turning it around 180 degrees and trying again.
The diode is a convenience. When I first changed my TO-20 to 12 volt, alternator, I just had a switch that turned P1 off and on. Got tired of that and installed the diode.

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JIm in OH

02-11-2006 17:40:40




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to KSTEP, 02-11-2006 17:00:58  
Put it in so that it conducts from the ignition to the P1 but blocks from P1 to the ignition (the banded end of the diode)on the P1 side... It really should not be passing much current to get hot... Jim



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KSTEP

02-11-2006 18:16:34




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to JIm in OH, 02-11-2006 17:40:40  
I'll try it first thing in the morning. thanks again and i'll let you know how it goes.



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KSTEP

02-11-2006 10:31:05




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 Re: Wireing question in reply to Jim in OH, 02-11-2006 10:21:22  
That sounds about right I was afraid that was the problem because it had a amp meter before. I added the volt meter today. I will put all the wires on the + side and ground the neg. Thanks a millon and if you remember something else I would apreciate the info.I'll let you know how it goes



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