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Pulled Head on my TO30

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Chuck (CA)

08-22-2000 10:47:24




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I had water in my oil, so yanked the head off to replace the gasket and decided to give it a look over..
Pistons are remarkably clean, but figure that was because of the water bath they've been receiving.
However, I payed a lot of attention to the area between the cylinder walls because of previous posts about cracks. Between each wall there seems to be a small shot peen. I'm thinking for strength. There does seem to be a hairline crack between the shot peen and # 3 cylinder wall. I can feel it with my fingernail, and does not go over to # 2 wall. Sleeves are very smooth with no ridges or gouges. On three of the pistons it says "standard" with a series of numbers afterwards. # 3 piston has no wording and is pitted along one edge. The valves look good. Any thoughts? Should I just replace the head gasket and close her up? Or do I have some other issues I should deal with? Sure don't want to split the tractor and pay for a machinist to look at it.
All thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Chuck

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Chuck (CA) Update

08-23-2000 18:36:27




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 Re: Pulled Head on my TO30 in reply to Chuck (CA), 08-22-2000 10:47:24  
No, I don't have it back together yet, but here's what I have so far. Checked for warpage (3 times) and there is none :-)
I poured gasoline.. no, no, I mean I poured NON-FLAMMABLE SOLVENT into the combustion chambers and checked for leakage ..very scientific.. the only issue is a very slow leak down thru # 1 intake. I'm talking 1 drop after 20 minutes. So with that, I'll leave the valves until January when I'm going to tear her down anyway.
Ernie, thanks for the crow's foot suggestion; I never would have thought of that. Also, what I meant by shot peen is it appears that someone (factory?) put a small center punch mark between each cylinder wall on the top of the block.
So, On my next day off, I'm just going to put a new head gasket on and call it good.

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ErnieD

08-24-2000 18:33:13




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 Re: Re: Pulled Head on my TO30 in reply to Chuck (CA) Update, 08-23-2000 18:36:27  
No Warpage...Hmmm. My Dad had a TO-30. He bought it used. It had 5 psi oil from the day we had it. He was mowing hay with it and it lost its water, well it over heated real good, enough to melt the spark plug boots. It leaked water to the oil after that. I took the head off and it was warped. Planed it and that was the end of the coolant problems.

We used it on the silo blower where it would sit belted up to a Fox blower running wide open. At night the exhaust manifold would glow red hot! The oil pressure made us nervous and traded it in on a Ford 3000.

Back to you, I don't remember the dent between cylinders. It would be interesting to find out if it has been overbored.

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Fred OH

08-23-2000 08:14:43




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 Re: Pulled Head on my TO30 in reply to Chuck (CA), 08-22-2000 10:47:24  
Hi Chuck from Fred,
I understand your concern for the Fergy but, you'd be surprised at what repairs that have been made to them and they run that way till someone opens them up and sees it and it kinda scares you. I've seen welds between the cylinders and even a hole drilled through the block from one side to the other and a bolt to draw the crack shut. Whenever I see that situation with an engine apart, I just put a can of stopleak in the radiator after buttoning it up. They used to use waterglass, the stuff that you put in chicken water to make their egg shells hard and the old timers said they used pepper and even horse turds to stop leaks. The 30 run okay before, it'll run okay again. I, as a machinist would say that if they had the metalurgy then to make better head bolts, we probably wouldn't see as many headgaskets changed. As another post said, check the head for warp though, put a good quality headgasket on it (not a no name)and run it. L8R----Fred

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ErnieD

08-22-2000 18:02:16




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 Re: Pulled Head on my TO30 in reply to Chuck (CA), 08-22-2000 10:47:24  
Check the head for flat. place a straightedge or carpenters square front to back. Ours warped concave when it overheated. Be sure to take the thermostat gasket off if you mill the head. We also had no cylinder ridge. Get yourself a crowsfoot nadapter to torque the bolts inacessable with a socket. Divide your torque spec in 1/2 or 1/3 and take it up in stages, ie not all at once.
Wire brush the head bolt threads, light oil and wipe excess off.

By all means grind the valves, they are pretty small for what is called of them.

Run the engine and get it to operating temperature. Pull the gas tank and valve cover and retorque the head bolts. Don't be surprised if you get 1/8-1/4 turn to final torgue. Check valve lash after your final torque.

Don't understand what you mean by "shot peen". Your find on #2 may be only a scratch. Your noname piston maybe a replacment. Has the engine been apart before?

Please post your finding on warpage.

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