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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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re-sleeving a TO-30

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Doug Fitch

12-01-2005 06:46:40




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I am in the process of installing new sleeves
in my TO-30 Ferguson. I am looking for any helpful hints or tips that will help me do that.




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Mike2

12-03-2005 18:04:51




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to Doug Fitch, 12-01-2005 06:46:40  
I never had my engine apart, but are you saying the cylindar sleeves in the continentals are replacable similar to a diesel engine??? Your typical gas engine needs bored out because they do not have the replacable sleeves and I thought that when it was time to to a ring job on my to-30 I was going to need to get the block bored. Now, all I need to do is slide in new sleeves and put new rings on the pistons. No machine shop.

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Oldfarmboy Jim

12-04-2005 01:11:17




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to Mike2, 12-03-2005 18:04:51  
Yes, Mike. Most tractor engines (continental, MF,MH,AC,IH...etc.) are sleeved. Usually wet, if gas: dry, if diesel.



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james in ca

12-02-2005 19:26:22




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to Doug Fitch, 12-01-2005 06:46:40  
Also my area where the sleave seals sit were pitted so my rebuilder suggested using permatex on the seal instead of soap.



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gshadel

12-01-2005 10:38:44




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to Doug Fitch, 12-01-2005 06:46:40  
Doug, the hardest part of re-sleeving is getting the old sleeves out. It's all downhill after that. From the way you worded your post, I'm assuming the old sleeves are out already.
Before installing the new sleeves, clean out the inside of the block REAL good with wire brush, water, etc. The manual says to rinse it with "white gas" which is the same thing as Coleman lantern fuel. It dries real fast, make sure you don't have any ignition sources around if you do that!
Clean-up the bottom tapered sleeve port in the block, wire wheel it, maybe even lightly sand it to make sure it is super clean, smooth and ready to accept the O-rings on the bottom of the sleeves to insure a good seal. Clean the crud out of the top mating groove on the block so the sleeve will set all the way flush in the groove.
Manual recommends greasing down the O-rings and bottom port with vasoline when you install. Works great, you should be able to press the sleeve down-in with the palm of your hand if you have done all the above. Tap the top of the sleeve lightly with a rubber mallet to make sure it is seated all the way down. The top of the sleeve should protrude about .002" above the block. If it more than ~.005, better pull the sleeve back out and make sure the top groove and sleeve are clean. Sometimes the O-rings want to roll out of the groove in the sleeve when you slide it down into the block, just have to watch that when you install the sleeves.
Don't need any silcone or other sealant to install the sleeves.

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Doug Fitch

12-01-2005 11:34:36




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to gshadel, 12-01-2005 10:38:44  
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I will do everything you suggested. I do have the old sleeves out, had to make a puller, it was a fist fight but it worked. A friend suggested freezing the new sleeves overnight to shrink them somewhat.

Any thought on the freezing



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gshadel

12-01-2005 12:29:35




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 Re: re-sleeving a TO-30 in reply to Doug Fitch, 12-01-2005 11:34:36  
Don't waste your time freezing your sleeves. That is an old trick for FORD sleeves which are dry fit sleeves, not wet sleeves with rubber O-rings like the Continentals. With the O-rings off, your new sleeves should just drop right into your block. Try it, you will see what I mean.



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