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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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another case of power loss - help

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mike2

11-06-2005 14:43:09




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Ok, I hated to put this post up because I know there are many cases like mine and I did try to search this formu and read the results. Anyways, this summer I adjusted my valves and the tractor TO-30 ran great until recently. I had it out today after not running for about two weeks and notes power loss. The first sign came when I tried to back up a hill, it would stall out. So, on flat ground, I tried to pull out in 4th and the tractor would just shut off. Since the valves are all I had messed with, I rechecked them but they all seemed ok. The electrical components are new and did check them. The oil in the air bath not sull of sluge. I am thinking it is a carb problem because the small adjusting screw was turned in tight. I can take this screw clean out and it does not seem to effect the engine at all. As for the large adjusting screw, it also does not seem to do anything until it is turned in the whole way which shuts the tractor off. The 3pt hitch and pto work great. Should I rebuild the carb or could it be comething else?

Also, on the carb there is a small plate towards the back (opposite of the choke) that seems like it would rotate and a small ball bearing looks like it is in the center. I broke this little plate, what is it? This was after my power loss and I broke it when I was tinkering with the carb to get it to run better.

Thanks,
Mike

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Jerry/MT

11-06-2005 15:27:14




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 Re: another case of power loss - help in reply to mike2, 11-06-2005 14:43:09  
When you checked the spark, how did you do that and what did you see? Did you check to see if you had a good supply of fuel to the carburetor? What kind of carb do you have? The original was a Marvel-Schebler TSX 458 but there are Zenith replacements out there. There should be a brass pale on the outside of the fuel bowl with the M-S model number stamped on it. If it's an M-S carb,the small screw in the side is the idle airflow control and screwing it in richens the idle mixture. It should be out about 3/4 turns.The large screw is the power jet or main jet and it should be out about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. The M-S carb has a choke plate with a spring loaded opening on it on the inlet of the carb and a throttle plate at the outlet where it attaches to the intake manifold. I don't know of any other "small plate" on the carb. As a word of advice, always check the spark first when you have a "poor running" problem and then check the fuel supply to the carburetor. ( ifyou don't know how to check the spark, get back to this forum and we'll tell you how.)Don't mess with the carburetor until you have verified that you have an adequate fuel supply to the carb. You do that by opening the tank valve and holding a can under the carb, remove the big plug underneath it. Let it run for thirty seconds and it should gush out for the whole time period. If it gushes and stops or is intermitent or dribbles, you have a fuel delivery problem. If you don't get a continuous gush of fuel, check the "secret filter" in the fuel inlet elbow at the carb, then work your way back to the sediment bowl and the tank valve. Check the fuel cap on the tank and make sure it doesn't have a plugged vent.

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mike2

11-06-2005 18:34:00




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 Re: another case of power loss - help in reply to Jerry/MT, 11-06-2005 15:27:14  
Spark was checked by simply removing the plug and grounding it out then cranking the engine. I don't think fuel delivery to the carb is a problem but once at the carb, it may be a problem. my bolt in the bottom of the carb was replaced by the previous owner with a petcock type. I removed it and the fuel dripped out of it at pretty much a steady rate, it did not gush out. I do not know the make of it but am expecting it to be origional based on photos I have seen. I think the brass plate you mentiond is the plate I was referring to if it is located at the left end of the carb if looking at it mounted on a tractor. So what is this secret filter? This may be the problem because I recently replaced my fuel line and bowl assembly so it may be at the secret filter.

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Jerry/MT

11-06-2005 20:50:17




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 Re: another case of power loss - help in reply to mike2, 11-06-2005 18:34:00  
Did the spark look fat and bluish? If it did that's good. If it looks orangey or yellowish, that's not good. A better way to test the primary ignition is to pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it an 1/8" away from a good ground and crank it over. You should have fat bluish spark meaning you don't have a primary ignition circuit problem. Repeat the step at the spark plug boot using a paper clip to ground it out. If it's fat and blue, your wire is OK.
It sounds to me like you may have a fuel delivery problem. The "secret filter" is a screen in the fuel inlet elbow at the carbureor. It's the fitting the fuel line is attached to. Disconnect the fuel line and see if you have a gush of fuel at the disconnect. If you do then remove the fitting and check the screen 'cuz it could be clogged. If you don't then keep moving upstream to the tank. If you still don't get a gush of fuel, remove the fuel cap. If you now get a gush of fuel, the cap vent is plugged. If you don't, the screen (if attached) or the supply tube at the tank is clogged. A lot of these machines were parked for years in old barns and under trees and the tanks are full of crap and corruption so to have clogging problems is not a unique occurance. Sometimes there is a bunch of crap in the fuel bowl of the carb that won't allow the float to drop and thus restricts the fuel flow. I don't know the history of your machine but if you just put it into service after years of non-use, a good tank cleaning might be in order.
If you look carefully on that brass plate, you should see the model number of the carb. The correct number is TSX 458. Let me know what you find when you conduct these checks.

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Mike2

11-07-2005 09:15:39




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 Re: another case of power loss - help in reply to Jerry/MT, 11-06-2005 20:50:17  
Thanks, will check this weekend.



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