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TO throttle and PTO questions

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Jim

07-17-2000 19:00:51




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I'm thinking of buying a TO-something (haven't figured out which yet), and I need some feedback on a couple things that are puzzling me. When I throttle up, the throttle lever wants to return to idle speed, by way of a spring-loaded (or engine vacuum?) return, much the same way as a conventional auto accelerator works. Is it supposed to work this way? It's very awkward trying to drive, operate PTO and/or hydraulic controls, all the while holding the throttle lever with one hand to maintain RPM. I had a TO30 awhile back and it did not work this way - wherever I set the throttle is where it stayed until I moved it. Any thoughts? Any fixes?
The other issue is that the PTO keeps disengaging while in operation; the lever just keeps popping back up to the off position. What does this indicate? It's running a brush hog mower. Could it be that the mower is unbalanced or mis-sized for the tractor, and keeps throwing the PTO to off? Or is there something seriously wrong internally in the PTO mechanics? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. There's a thousand dollars of potential mispent money hanging in the balance. Thanks.

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Keith

07-18-2000 20:30:14




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 Re: TO throttle and PTO questions in reply to Jim, 07-17-2000 19:00:51  
The advice George gave is right on for stopping the throttle lever from drifting. As far as the PTO lever is concerned I will start by explaining that the lever on the side fits into groove on a rod that is in turn attached to a bracket that fits in a groove that moves a sliding collar. Its that collar that moves over the PTO gears to engage them. If the PTO is otherwise operating okay, but eventually comes out of contact then the collar is sliding backwards off the gear. The rod that attaches to the bracket that moves the collar is threaded and goes into a hole in the bracket with a lock washer and nut to hold it tight on the bracket. Also, on this rod is a groove that a ball detent from the PTO gear housing engages with. This ball detent helps to hold the rod in place and not allow it to move easily. You should be able to "feel" it go into the groove when it is working right. There should be resistance to it moving when in the groove. If not then the ball detent spring might be broken or a groove has been worn in the rod from the many years of movement. If the latter is the case then as a first move I would remove the side plate with the lever (drain oil down first)and follow the rod toward the front of the tractor until you can find the bracket and the nut holding the rod in the bracket. There may be enough room to loosen the rod and turn it to a different position that is not worn and retighten it. Temporarily put the side plate on and see if it made a difference. I am just guessing about the room available to do this. When I took mine apart I had already taken the top off with the hydraulic cylinder. Access is easy then. The nut is on quite tight and that could present another problem with trying to move it through the side plate. This may sound rather complicated, but I doubt if you have a major problem,its just in an area that is not easily accesible without some disassembly. If it is not abruptly jumping out of gear as soon as it is engaged then the problem is most likey at the ball detent. If it jumps out abruptly then there could be more serious problems. Don't give up to soon if the tractor is otherwise in good condition.

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george T

07-18-2000 01:05:20




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 Re: TO throttle and PTO questions in reply to Jim, 07-17-2000 19:00:51  
been there done that the gas leaver has a spring on the end of the shaft up front its atached with a U bolt on the shaft and the other end of the spring is attached to the govener control arm if the U bolt is not in the right position and puts to much tenschion on it it will pull it dowen or more offten the cork or rubber washer that goes through the dash board gets wore out and slips the friction of the washer is all that holds it in position there is a U bolt and a tenchion spring right behind the dash on the shaft loosen the U bolt here and the one on front and pull shaft toward the front of tractor and push back on U bolt and spring so spring gives more tension to the washer then retighten U bolts you can also spray on some belt dresing on the washer to give it more holding power when you tighten the U bolts back up make shure there in the right position. if this fails to solve the problem you might have to replace the friction rings [cork washer] I had one TO 20 that I just had to put a small bunje cord on to help hold it dowen. .

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