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Rebuilt Marvel Schebler Carb, now engine runs wors

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Fredrick Sheffi

08-02-2005 13:29:29

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Hello there, I have a 50's Feguson TO-30 with the 4 cyl gas engine, it has a marvel schebler carb on it. The engine began to run very bad, no power at all, engine bogged down, would barely run. So I replaced points, cap, rotor, spark plugs and rebuilt the carb (unfortantly the carb rebuild kit was a joke and barely contained any parts except a new needle and seat). Now the engine is worse off then before, except now Its very hard to get the engine to run, its worse now then ever, the carb seems to be flooding out the air intake, the float is ajdusted to specs, I am at a loss as to what to do now.

Any help or advice would be greatly apperciated.

Thank you,

Dan w/Ferguson TO-30

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gshadel

08-03-2005 07:15:21

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Re: Rebuilt Marvel Schebler Carb, now engine runs in reply to Fredrick Sheffield, 08-02-2005 13:29:29

Fred, those symptoms do sound like ignition problems. After replacing all those components, did you check your spark? Should be a zappy, blue spark, not a weak orange spark. Might be something as simple as a corroded wire connection, point gap too tight, or worn out plug wires.

I know what you mean on the carb rebuild kits, last time I bought one I was really disappointed with it. If you have gas leaking out the air intake, your needle valve ain't getting the job done. When these upflow carbs get overfilled with gas the engine won't run at all. Make sure you shut-off the fuel to the carb when not running. These new rubber tipped needle valves just don't seem to shut-off the gas 100% and the carb floods after sitting a short time. Also check your shut-off valve to make sure it indeed does shut-off. I found mine was leaking thru when I had similar problems.
Also, pull the drain plug on the bottom of the carb with the shutoff valve open, let it drain for at least a couple minutes. The gas flow should be strong and steady the whole time, no slowing down, gasping for air, etc. If it isn't solid the whole time, you have a clog in the fuel line. My guess is you checked the elbow strainer going into the carb when you rebuilt, you also probably have a screen inside the tank, maybe another one in the top of your fuel bowl.

I noticed on my carb. kit, the float gap in the instructions was different than the manual. I went with the rebuild directions, big mistake,the carb would flood within minutes of shutting of the engine. I ended-up pulling the carb back off and re-adjusting to the manual spec's. The manual has a test for measuring the fuel level in the carb bowl using a piece of clear tubing stuck in the drain plug hole. Do that to make sure your float is set right.
Hope this helps.
George

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0727a

08-09-2005 03:28:57

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Jerry/MT

08-02-2005 15:03:33

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Re: Rebuilt Marvel Schebler Carb, now engine runs in reply to Fredrick Sheffield, 08-02-2005 13:29:29

How did you determine that the caburetor was the problem for poor running? Have you checked the wear in your distributor? What about the advance mechanism and the initial timing? How is the governor operating? To check for distributor wear, push on the shaft radially after closing the points and see what ammount of motion you see with the points. The shaft and bushings wear on these old Delco distributors after 50 + years and while the engine may run, it runs real ratty. New points , etc won't cure it.Only a distributor rebuild will.
You have to really clean out these old carbs when you rebuild them not just eplace the parts. If you carburetor is filling the air intake with gas, your float is either maladjusted, stuck open or the needle valve is not functioning properly. Some times a rap on the carb with a wooden block will unstick a hung float. I generally shut the fuel off at the tank on my '54 TO-30 after use to assure myself that the carb won't flood.

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