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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Oil Change

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JR Baker

07-27-2005 08:58:25




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I recently purchased a TO-30 and it appears the oil has not been changed for some time (looks to be quite dirty... black) I don"t have a manual, but I assume originally these probably used straight SAE30.(???) My question is.. can I use a multi-grade (10W30, 10W40, etc..) I am in central Iowa and the temperature ranges anywhere
from 100+ degrees in the summer and -20"s in the winter. Any suggestions?

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Bill Brox

07-31-2005 00:09:23




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
Many many years ago I asked an engineer from Shell about oils for older engines. He said that I should not be worried about multigrade versus singlegrade, that is not where the problem lays.
There is in general 3 types of oils, oils that is mainly designed for use with gas engines, but can also be used in light duty diesel engines.
These oils have an API S(x) / C(x) rating. It started with SA/CA, now it is maybe SF or SG or SH maybe, the S(x) is for gas engines. The C(x) is for diesels, maybe CF or CG is the newest, I am not sure.
The next type of oil is mainly designed for medium / heavy duty diesel engines, but can also be used in gas engines, it means they still have both ratings, for example, SF/CD.
The third type of oil is strictly designed for use in diesel engines.
There may be a fourth type too,, that is only possible to use in gas engines, but I have never seen them.
This is of course for 4 stroke engines.
The engineer from Shell said to me that on older gas engines the oils that was designed for medium / heavy duty diesel engines but could also be used in gas engines was the most correct oil.
Those oils have some additives that better prevent metal to metal contact, so in a worn engine it works wonder.
I tried to change this on my dad's Toyota car, and on a hill was always had to shift down from 4th to 3rd, we could after the oil change drive maybe 200 yards longer before we had to shift.

The additives to prevent metal to metal contact is there because the diesel bangs the rod so much harder than the gas engines.

There are also other additives in the engine oils that is designed for medium / heavy duty diesel engines that those old engines will benefit from.
I have run all my engines on such oils ever since, and all this yucky stuff that forms in the roof of the valve covers are long gone. No sign of it anymore. And no matter what engine.
It also keeps the old engines cleaner, because diesel engines normally gets more dirty, there is more cleaning additives in the oil.

All major oil brands have these oils.

I saw that one here said he used Shell Rotella, and that will be the correct Shell oil to use.
I have included the link to the Shell site for those who want to compare that oil to the brand they prefer.
Link

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 would be a good oil. But they have also single grade oils. And the other brands will have excellent equivalents.

For the transmission, a 40W or 50W single grade or a 15W-40 or 20W-50 multigrade oil would be very good.
Do never use hydraulic oil in the rear end of a TE or TO 20 or 30. It does not lubricate the differential well enough.
And a straight thick gear oil is not pumpable in a hydraulic system. So, it is either use a cheap quality engine oil, or go with the special designed transmission oils for modern tractors, but you do not benefit from the additives for wet disc brakes then.
When I say use a cheap engine oil, it is because almost any engine oil will do in the transmission / hydraulics of an old Ferguson.
There is not the same need for cleaning additives or special high temp. formulas as an engine will need. However, if you use the same oil designed for use in medium / heavy duty diesel engines you will benefit from that additive to prevent metal to metal contact.
So, the entire tractor will wear less that way.


Bill

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Matt-in-KS

07-29-2005 05:09:09




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
I run HD30 in my TO-20 year round. At idle oil pressure is 40-45. Even after running it for hours while brush hogging the oil pressure never drops below 35.



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RandyR

07-28-2005 17:56:41




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
Hi JR. The owners manual for my 35, Continental gas) from 1962 says at below zero, use 10w, from zero to 90 degrees use sae 20, above 90 deg use sae 30. So I use 10w30.



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clearfield

07-28-2005 14:25:59




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
I would not use multi grade oil in a older tractor
if the oil is really dirty like you say
I would use a non detergent oil a 30 wt till you see if it cleans up first are you able to talk to the prev owner and see what he used if he never used a detergent oil and its as dirty as you say you need to continue with a non detergent and stay with a 20 or 30 wt if you ever decide to tear her down and clean her up good then you can start with a multi and a detergent just my thought I am a old Ford dealer and think from the old school.
clearfield

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HuskerScott

07-27-2005 21:41:11




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
As Paul suggested do a search on the Ford 8N site and you will find many opinions.

I myself have run 20W50 in my TO 20 for the past 3 years without problems. Holds oil pressure well when mowing in summer and always started when I needed to blade snow in the winter.

And I live in west central Iowa.

Scott



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gshadel

07-28-2005 04:40:48




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to HuskerScott, 07-27-2005 21:41:11  
I agree with you guys. I was running 20W50 year round for several years, but switched to 10W40 after my rebuild because my oil pressure was always running 30-35 psi even at idle. Didn't see any issues when I rebuilt to suggest the 20W50 was causing a problem.

However, I think most guys will agree your tranny oil should be 90Wt GL-1 mineral oil, the original oil spec'ed for that. Not GL-3, GL-5, or that thin multipurpose hydraulic oil stuff.
Welcome to the TO family !

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Jerry/MT

07-27-2005 14:38:19




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
There are probably as many "opinions" (and very few substantiated facts, in my opinion)about this subject as there are people who write in this forum, so I'll give you mine. The oils that we have available today are so superior to the oils available in the 50's when the Fergusons were built that I would not hesitate using the multi-vis oils in your TO-30. I use 10W40 in my '54 TO-30 and I did before I replaced the engine a few years ago. There will be a plethra of responses about this subject that will probably disagree with my opinion, but opinions are like belly buttons;everybody's got one!

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Paul F B

07-27-2005 09:20:07




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 08:58:25  
Do a search on this site as well as the Ford site. This question has been discussed numerous times and there are several schools of thought. I run the straight weight oil because my tractor is original and never has been rebuilt. Get an owner's manual from this site or Al in BC. You'll grow to love your little "30". Paul F B



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PD

07-28-2005 18:50:19




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to Paul F B, 07-27-2005 09:20:07  
I use Rotella 15w40 in my '49 TO-20. Works fine in summer, starts well in winter. Oil pressure 20-30 psi depending on temperature..... .P



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JR Baker

07-27-2005 17:04:39




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to Paul F B, 07-27-2005 09:20:07  
What about the filter element? I see there is a conversion kit for a screw on type. Would anyone recommend this over the OEM type? It seems this would make sense, provided you could purchase the screw on filters at any auto parts store. I haven"t checked with the local implement dealers, but it seems the OEM would likely be a online purchase with the added cost of S&H.



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Frank Getti

07-31-2005 09:48:16




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 Re: Oil Change in reply to JR Baker, 07-27-2005 17:04:39  
The elemnts are veray available.. I just picked up 2 this morning at NAPA part # 1010 $11.50 easch



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