TO-20 won't restart after stalling

you may roll your eyes at my ignorance, but I'm grateful for your assistance. Actually, I have a deal with my neighbor. She grew up on tractors, I grew up wrenching cars and motorcycles. So, I work on the tractor, she uses it. I have permission to move it in the driveway. beginning to look like that's too much for me! ;)

btw, this was supposed to be a "rebuilt" tractor. Looks pretty on the outside, but when I changed the oil yesterday, there was no filter in the pan! sludgy, no water, the screen won't come out due to damage from bottoming the oil pan. I'll probably drop the oil pan and give it a good cleaning as well, considering replacing it with one from this site (so I can get the screen out). Does anyone know if the new oil pan offered is painted or bare? thanks.

Your tractor blowing steam is a big problem, obviously should never do that no matter how hard your work'in her with a hog. Take the time to clean out the radiator fins real good, spray both directions thru the fins with a garden hose or small powerwash. You would be shocked how much debris builds-up in there that you can easily see. Make sure you install that new thermo with the flow arrow pointing towards the radiator or it will overheat ASAP. Might also want to drain your radiator, inspect, maybe flush if it looks goopy in there. Also, if you haven't already done it, make sure you adjust your carb "power" mixture screw (the big one) after your carb surgery. Your TO carb helps prevent overheating by running on the rich side under heavy load. I don't recall the adjustment procedure off the top of my head, it is in the manual. Also clean/inspect your air cleaner and make sure you have the correct amount of 30 wt oil in there.
Sorry, can't help you on the idle screw angle thing. The rebuild kit I had a couple years ago didn't have optional parts like that.

good spark;
compression same on all cylinders ~90psi;
starts with ether but only ran as long as ether being sprayed, so...

took off carb and float chamber still had bits of silicon floating in it! opened eveything up and blew it out with carb cleaner spray (Berryman's B12), put it back together and she started right up! ran bush hog for an hour and it started blowing steam so today we're replacing the radiator cap (184528M91) and thermostat (181634V1) which the local MF dealer had in stock.

Mice sure like the tool tray in front of gas tank, so no more rag storage there!

By the way, the carb kit had two idle metering screws in it, a 15 and a 30 degree, and said to replace with the same as was in carb. How would you know the one you are taking out was the right one? my old one was pretty damaged from tightening all the way down, and I was just curious how you'd know which was the right one?