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TO-20 front axle

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FergUser

06-13-2000 16:34:50




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I have a '50 TO-20 that I use for Fruit tree spraying, tree pulling, mowing, back-blading and dump bucket(rear) to name a few. The machine runs great and is powerful enough for most jobs. I do have a concern about the front axle pivot. It is not easy to see behind the grill and axle and I know it has a lot of play (caster-camber. My I-T manual is not good on theis and I don't see parts listed in C T. Anyone know what parts are needed for the pivot, are they available and do they interchange with N's. And how tough a job to replace.

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Fred OH

06-15-2000 12:45:38




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 Re: TO-20 front axle in reply to FergUser, 06-13-2000 16:34:50  
If the front pivot pin is worn out of tolerance and repaired by replacement of pin and bushing, what about the rest of the system? There is the bolt that holds the radius rods to the front axle extensions. If you take the bolt out and look at the hole, it'll be egg shaped and the ball on the other end of it will have a lot of play in it. My advice on the bolt is to drill down through the axle and it's yoke with a 11/16" drill and make two new bolts for it. (machine shop job- 1038 to 1095-3/4" hexagon steel would be fine). While the radius rods are disconnected, check play in ball socket on other end. (Usually sloppy) If theres shims under the cap, remove (two bolts or studs) to take out sloppyness. If not enough, you can grind a little on the cap surface so it seats closer being careful not to grind off too much or you'll have to use shims to give it a little free play. A 1/32" would be fine. My opinion is: Why rebuild the pivot pin and bushing when the other parts are loose and will beat it out again in a lot less than 50 years. Next to do is to loosen the big nuts on the side of the steering box, the ones with the screwdriver slot in the center and turn them (both) in a 1/4 turn at a time till you take all the play you can out of the steering wheel without the wheel getting tight anywhere in it's travel. (Best done with frontend jacked up). You can also check the front wheel bearing play and make sure they're snug but not tight. This proceedure will stop her from shimmying at wide open throttle. And that is as good as it gets (from a machinist's point of view). I'm not sorry about the long post, proceedure posts will be that way. Thought you'd like to do it right. L8R----Fred

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keith

06-14-2000 17:08:08




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 Re: TO-20 front axle in reply to FergUser, 06-13-2000 16:34:50  

if you are looking for parts for your fergie,I strongly suggest you call my parts supplier.

i can't believe all the stuff he has or can get,he will mail it to you or whatever.

he's in canada near toronto,DON WATSON phone #519-846-0776,a super guy to talk to even for advice.

good luck, keith



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Mike

06-13-2000 18:04:00




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 Re: TO-20 front axle in reply to FergUser, 06-13-2000 16:34:50  
How to change a front pivot pin. I just did this one week ago for my 48 TO 20, could be easy or hard depending on the wear. Here goes...The pin and bushing from a ford 2n will work (with a slight modification). Most ford tractordealers carry the parts. Pivot pin # 2N3126D for $28 and bushing # 2N3039. The bushing is an exact fit, drive out the old and press or carefully drive the new in. The pivot pin needs two modifications. #1 The front face is larger and IT WILL NOT clear the radiator. Grind the top down using the old for a reference. #2 The pin is about 1/2 inch shorted than the Fergie needs. I used the old pin, sectioned out with a torch an inch of tubing and welded to the new. A little dress up with a grinder and you are done. Now for the possible hard part. Check both pivot pin support surfaces in the axle carrier for wear. If you have as much movement as you said, expect one or both to be elongated. Use the new pin bolted in place as your guide. Figure out how much metal you need, remove the pin and use a welder to replace the metal. We used a wire welder and a die grinder to dress the holes. It did not take all that long. I did not try for a perfect fit, as the pin does not pivot I wanted alignment first. To finish, after installing the axle and pin, bolting the pin in place and making certain the axle is right side up (dont laugh, I put it in upside down first) I placed 2 strips of weld at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions about 1/2 inc long. That should cure any movement as the hole may not be perfect. I figured that if it lasted 52 years as bad as it looked, 50 years from now someone else can remove the weld. That should do it, questions, give a yell. good luck Mike

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