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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TE-20 Hydrolics not going down

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Fergie Lad

06-11-2005 09:49:44




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My TE-20 which I'v had awhile will no longer let the hydrolics go down, no matter if the PTO is in or out, or the clutch engaged or disengaged. Even with the engine stopped they won't go down [which they used to].A few months ago it happened to me the same but when I pulled back on the top link where that large spring goes to the rear end it released them, letting them go to the ground. If there was pressure pushing on the top link I never could get the lift arms to go down, it was like the hydro lever was doing nothing [very loose].

Any help would be great.

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buickanddeere

06-12-2005 19:04:03




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 Re: TE-20 Hydraulics Hydrolics Hydraulics not goin in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 09:49:44  
Hydraulics



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John(UK)

06-13-2005 14:55:38




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 Re: TE-20 Hydraulics Hydrolics Hydraulics not goin in reply to buickanddeere, 06-12-2005 19:04:03  
We know what he means.



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John(UK)

06-11-2005 11:25:35




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 09:49:44  
It sounds like your Control Spring (at the back of the seat) needs adjusting as it has some play in it, this is normal after a period of time. Email me at :-
fergusontractors at tiscali dot co dot uk and I will send you the information you need to adjust this and tell you what else it could be. Just tell me everything again when you mail me though please.



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Fergie Lad

06-11-2005 16:49:49




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to John(UK), 06-11-2005 11:25:35  
My E-mail is not working right now. I looked at the service manual and parts manual. It said to tighten yoke on control spring until the spring is without play while carrying a load like a plow.There is a 1/4'' of play in the spring. I tried this but ofcourse the yoke is seized, [I guess thats why the service manual said to adjust and lub every 6 months]. It's not safe to heat up the yoke with the torch is it? Will it take out the temper if I pull out the plunger then heat it? Is there a secret to getting them off? Can I find a new yoke if I cut it off? How much torque is safe removing that yoke?

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 04:43:43




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 16:49:49  
there should be .020" free play only in that yoke and spring or you should JUST be able to turn the spring by hand if you grip it lightly, this is what is causing your problems. As you say it is seized you can't turn it, so the top cover needs to come off so that you can hold the rod inside, then if you heat the yoke you may be able to get it off, if you try to turn it without holding the rod inside you will destroy the Control Fork. You can't just use a different yoke on an existing rod , they have to be matched otherwise you may not be able to get the adjustment correct. To remove the top cover you have to detach the Control Valve first or you will break it. You can heat up the yoke, in fact it is the only way now to get it free, just quench it with water as soon as you have it free so it will retain it's hardness. If you get your email working my information sheet explains all this more fully.

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 04:43:24




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 16:49:49  
there should be .020" free play only in that yoke and spring or you should JUST be able to turn the spring by hand if you grip it lightly, this is what is causing your problems. As you say it is seized you can't turn it, so the top cover needs to come off so that you can hold the rod inside, then if you heat the yoke you may be able to get it off, if you try to turn it without holding the rod inside you will destroy the Control Fork. You can't just use a different yoke on an existing rod , they have to be matched otherwise you may not be able to get the adjustment correct. To remove the top cover you have to detach the Control Valve first or you will break it. You can heat up the yoke, in fact it is the only way now to get it free, just quench it with water as soon as you have it free so it will retain it's hardness. If you get your email working my information sheet explains all this more fully.

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 04:43:22




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 16:49:49  
there should be .020" free play only in that yoke and spring or you should JUST be able to turn the spring by hand if you grip it lightly, this is what is causing your problems. As you say it is seized you can't turn it, so the top cover needs to come off so that you can hold the rod inside, then if you heat the yoke you may be able to get it off, if you try to turn it without holding the rod inside you will destroy the Control Fork. You can't just use a different yoke on an existing rod , they have to be matched otherwise you may not be able to get the adjustment correct. To remove the top cover you have to detach the Control Valve first or you will break it. You can heat up the yoke, in fact it is the only way now to get it free, just quench it with water as soon as you have it free so it will retain it's hardness. If you get your email working my information sheet explains all this more fully.

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Fergie Lad

06-12-2005 10:09:40




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to John(UK), 06-12-2005 04:43:22  
Shouldn't pulling on the shaft inside the control spring by hand with enough force have the same effect as tighting the yoke, only with the temporary release of what ever is inside. Resulting in the lift arms lowering.
The reason I ask this is because a few months ago the last time I used the lift arms they stuck up the same as now but when I turned around in the seat and leaned on the peice that the yoke pins into, the arms lowered. But it does not seem to work this time. Could there be another problem in addition to the control spring adjustment causing the leaning to not work this time?

John (uk) I sent you an E-Mail for the info sheet you mentioned on removing the top cover.

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 12:31:21




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-12-2005 10:09:40  
I got your email and I am going to reply to it shortly. Yes it is possible that there is something else true, but until you have eliminated this play and got the adjustment correct you may never know. When you move the shaft and yoke you are altering the setting of the control fork and its connection to the Control Lever. It is quite possible that more wear has taken place now and what you could do before by pressing on it now has no effect due to the wear. The only sure way is to adjust it till the setting is correct then you can go from there, trying anything else could waste lots of time and would be very hit and miss.

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 04:38:06




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 16:49:49  
there should be .020" free play only in that yoke and spring or you should JUST be able to turn the spring by hand if you grip it lightly, this is what is causing your problems. As you say it is seized you can't turn it, so the top cover needs to come off so that you can hold the rod inside, then if you heat the yoke you may be able to get it off, if you try to turn it without holding the rod inside you will destroy the Control Fork. You can't just use a different yoke on an existing rod , they have to be matched otherwise you may not be able to get the adjustment correct. To remove the top cover you have to detach the Control Valve first or you will break it. You can heat up the yoke, in fact it is the only way now to get it free, just quench it with water as soon as you have it free so it will retain it's hardness. If you get your email working my information sheet explains all this more fully.

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John(UK)

06-12-2005 04:36:32




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 Re: TE-20 Hydrolics not going down in reply to Fergie Lad, 06-11-2005 16:49:49  
there should be .020" free play only in that yoke and spring or you should JUST be able to turn the spring by hand if you grip it lightly, this is what is causing your problems. As you say it is seized you can't turn it, so the top cover needs to come off so that you can hold the rod inside, then if you heat the yoke you may be able to get it off, if you try to turn it without holding the rod inside you will destroy the Control Fork. You can't just use a different yoke on an existing rod , they have to be matched otherwise you may not be able to get the adjustment correct. To remove the top cover you have to detach the Control Valve first or you will break it. You can heat up the yoke, in fact it is the only way now to get it free, just quench it with water as soon as you have it free so it will retain it's hardness. If you get your email working my information sheet explains all this more fully.

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