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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Starter Safety Switch, TEA20

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Wes (SC)

02-21-2005 20:14:31




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I have owned a '51 tea20 for about 12 years now. I haven't had time to do a complete restoration but every couple of years I get an urge to put something back to original condition. My latest endeavor is the starter switch. It wasn't in service when I bought the tractor. I ohmed it out and found no contact when shifter moved to the S position (surprise!). I removed the switch, reconditioned the contacts, bench tested it successfully and reassembled. Still no contact when on the tractor. It appears that the linkage is not moving far enough to push the button in as far as it needs to go. I'm getting about 1" of movement at the top of the shift handle and about 1/8" at the arm that pushes the button. Does this sound like the correct amount of movement? It does appear that there may have been a brass piece on the end of the button on the starter that has worn away. If the button was a little longer to begin with, this could also explain why it won't make contact now. The contacts inside the switch are in good condition. I don't want to spend the money on a new switch if the linkage is the problem. I guess my main question is how far should the shifter move going into the S position? Thanks in advance for any help.

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Ron in WI

02-22-2005 12:49:30




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Wes (SC), 02-21-2005 20:14:31  
I did the same as Jim W only I didn't have any shim stock, so I cut up some copper washer pieces and put under the heads of the contact bolts so they would now connect.

Ron



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John (UK)

02-22-2005 09:36:38




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Wes (SC), 02-21-2005 20:14:31  
You can't adjust the amount of movement on the selector rail from the gearbox and if you adjust the switch as Jim says in his posting it should work. If the switch still doesn't work and you have made sure it is sat flat down on the clutch housing with no old gasket underneath then the switch needs to be changed. That is the only adjustment for this switch but the contacts do burn in time and they could be burnt that little bit too much.If the switch contacts will close when you operate it manually you could try a spot of weld on the tip if the lever that pushes the button underneath to give it that little bit more pressure.

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Jim W

02-21-2005 20:59:30




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Wes (SC), 02-21-2005 20:14:31  
The switch has oblong holes so it can be positioned fore and aft. Have you moved it as far as possible forward?
Jim
PS If you have then you can take out the threaded posts (be careful) and put a bit of shim stock under them so the heads will be lower. I have done this with success. But it is easy to break the parts.



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Wes (SC)

02-22-2005 09:01:18




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Jim W, 02-21-2005 20:59:30  
I completely removed the switch housing from the tractor to refurbish the contacts. When I reinstalled it, I moved it as far forward as it would go but still no luck. It seems like the contacts must be just a hair shy of touching. I don't understand the procedure you mention in your PS. Can you elaborate?



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Jim W

02-22-2005 10:55:46




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Wes (SC), 02-22-2005 09:01:18  
The two easy-to-break copper studs can be pressed down out of the easy-to-break bakelite. I had some 0.010" brass shim stock around and I believe I used two thicknesses between the heads of the studs, which are the contacts, and the bakelite. That is, the contact surfaces of the studs ended up a little closer to the disc.
Jim



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Wes (SC)

02-22-2005 19:33:29




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 Re: Starter Safety Switch, TEA20 in reply to Jim W, 02-22-2005 10:55:46  
Thanks for everyone's advice. I was concerned that some problem with the shift rail would not let the linkage move far enough. I'll try the shims under the contact posts to move them closer to the disk. The thickness of a copper washer will more than likely do the job. Anybody have any idea what the thread is on these posts? I only have one nut on each post. I would like to leave them tightened down to hold the posts in place and use a second nut to secure the ring terminals on my wiring. I've tried 8mm 1.25 thread, 8mm 1.00 thread, 5/16x18 but none of these will go more than a couple of turns before jamming up.

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