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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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To-20 Hydralic broke

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Dtefft

11-07-2004 16:40:45




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Have a TO-20 Ferguson. It has work flawlessly for the last 15 years. Today I was grading the driveway and the blade will no longer lift. This was a sudden failure. It worked fine this morning. When I lift the lower links by hand, there is no resistance anywhere.
So I think something has broken but wanted to know where to start. I don't have a problem tearing it apart, but I'd like to know what I'm looking for. Any advice would be most appreciated.

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ZANE

11-10-2004 05:38:13




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to Dtefft, 11-07-2004 16:40:45  
There is not supposed to be any resistance to your lifting the lift arms. They are supposed to be this way. The ram rod is not rigidly attached to the ram cylinder piston and when you raise the lift arms it just lifts the ram rod off the bottom of the piston. Not to worry.

I don't think you should pull the top cover until you have determined if the control arms are attached to the control valve "T" thingy on the end of the control valve. Also if you shoudl try to remove the top cover before you have disconnected the "T" thingy you will surely break the control valve stem and be into more work than you started with.

The control valve can also be stuck etc.

Attached is my trouble shooting file on the Ferguson system. Note that the Ford 9N/2N lift is identical to the TO 20 etc.

You do know that the PTO has to be engaged for the lift to work????? Clutch has to be engaged too.

The 9N lift has no position control.To maintain the lift at a given position the hand must constantly be on the control lever to continually re adjust. I can fix that for you if you will Email me at [email protected] or see the link below.

If the lift is �knocking� when holding under a load it is a sign that the moving parts of the eccentric are becoming worn and it has some loose motion. This is not a problem! If it ain�t broke don�t fix it! This condition will not cause any loss of function of the lift. If something breaks in this area you will not have to guess what happened because the lift will quit working or be reduced to barely working.

The most common places to leak on the lift is the piston rings and the pressure relief valve.
In order to determine where the lift is leaking you should remove the right hand inspection plate that holds the dip stick for the lift oil. If oil runs out when this cover is removed it has too much oil in it and letting it run out is ok.

Start the tractor with a load on the lift arms such as a rotary cutter etc. raise the lift and observe inside the lift to see where the oil is leaking down. If the piston rings are leaking their will be a pretty good stream of oil coming out the end of the ram cylinder. If just a few drops this is ok. If the bore of the ram cylinder is not badly scored a new set of rings and a little honing will fix this. I would recommend a piston and the Neoprene rubber ring for a badly scored cylinder or if you really want to eliminate leak down completely.

Observe the oil in the reservoir and if you see the oil swirling around the relief valve is probably leaking. It is the gadget that is screwed into the back of the hydraulic pump just under the pto shaft.It will be under the oil and feels something like a spark plug. You can remove and replace the relief valve with the PTO in place by bending a boxed end 11/16� end wrench about 60% so that it will reach under the PTO and still be long enough to give some leverage. A cut off wrench will work too but will have to be hammered to loosen the valve.

If before starting the tractor you will put your hand into the oil and locate the relief valve you can reach in and put one finger over the end of the relief valve and determine if it is leaking after the tractor has again been started. DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF PUTING A FINGER IN THE PUMP MECHANISM!!!!

If however you don't see a significant leak from the top you can assume that the relief valve is leaking and simply replace it with a new one and thereby prevent the possible loss of a finger or two.

I;ve never tried it but I�ve read that you can drain enough oil from the lift reservoir to uncover the relief valve and see if it is leaking instead of using the obviously dangerous finger feel thing I described.


There could also be a blown gasket somewhere in the upper portion of the lift but if so you will see a lot of oil coming down from the top and then it�s just a case of taking the cover off and finding the culprit. The pump gasket can also blow inside and when this happens the lift will not raise any weight to speak of and is just about impossible to detect. The only thing to do in this case is to eliminate everything else and then pull the pump and replace the gasket to differential housing gasket.

Be sure to release the control rods from the control valve T on the pump before trying to remove the lift cover. To fail to do so will result in a broken lift control valve stem.

If the control valve is stuck the lift will not raise or go down if it is up. If you should be having trouble with the lift not going down when the lever is moved to the down position I would suggest that while the inspection plate is off on the side of the lift housing you reach in and manually push the two levers that go into the oil in the reservoir and are connected to the control valve. The control valve sometimes sticks in the up position. If you should find that you can make it go down by pulling the valve toward the rear of the tractor internally on the control rods the sticking could have been caused by dirty gritty oil. You should drain the lift and pour about 5 gallons of clean kerosene through the lift with the drain open. It is best to pour it directly into the inspection hole. Let the kerosene that drains out sit for about 15 minutes and pour it through again leaving the portion that is in the bottom of the container to be discarded. You can also do a pretty good job with a garden sprayer with kerosene in it or diesel etc. A pressure washer will do it too but then you are going to have the water residue to contend with. You can never get it all out and it will discolor the oil from the start up.

The control rods that attach to each end of the �T� shaped thingy on the control valve can become disconnected too. You can tell if this has happened by putting your hand down into the oil at the back of the pump following the control rods for a guide and feeling to see if they are still in both rods. The rods each have a small eyelet into which the �T� is held. On the N tractor these rods are retained simply by the spread of the two rods. The two rods have to be bent so that they are pushing inwards on both sides to hug the �T�. Sometimes the tension relaxes and then the �T� becomes dislodged and looses the hold on the control valve spool itself. You should try to squeeze the two control rods together enough that they will stay attached to the �T� before you try to re-attach them to the �T�.

If the control valve spring and retainer on the control valve spool itself is defective it can cause all sorts of problems of control etc. This is a rare condition but when the control valve spring fails it will not allow the control valve to move as it should in response to the movements of the control rods. This spring is between the �T�of the control valve and the control valve spool and is designed to cushion the sudden movement of the control rods as when using ground engaging equipment.

You should also inspect the spring that is connected between the front end of the ram cylinder of the lift to the knee portion of the control rods that go from the linkage at the top to the control valve in the bottom of the pump. This spring sometimes looses it tension from age and usage and must have enough tension on it to pull the control valve out when the lever is moved to the down position.

POSITION CONTROL FOR THE 9N/2N
If you should decide to use Paypal I can ship tomorrow. All you have to do is go to Paypal.com and join if you don�t already belong. It requires using your major credit card to join and if you don�t have money in Paypal account it will be charged to your credit card.

A money order will be fine. Just takes longer to get to me.

This is my original sales pitch and it is still just $80.00

August 28, 1999 By Zane Sherman 2824 Renfroe Road Talladega Al. 35160 I DO ACCEPT PAYPAL

Position control for the hydraulic lift on the 9N/2N Ford tractor and the TO, TE, TEA Etc, Ferguson tractors.
The 9N/2N came with constant draft hydraulics and at the time this was the state of the art in tractor hydraulics. This feature however did not incorporate position or height control of the implements.

My device the ZANE THANG gives the Ferguson system this feature without any change to the original equipment on the tractor.
I noticed that you have a tractor with the Ferguson lift system �Ferguson system� which does not incorporate the option of POSITION CONTROL. I have invented an add on device that will give position control with no modification of the original lift or any component of the tractor and thought that you might be interested in seeing the particulars. It is mounted on the exterior of the tractor and does not require going inside the lift at all.


Ask some of the guys on the board or look back to the end of August or the middle of Sept. About the �ZANE THANG� Position control for the 9N 2N and TO Ferguson. All these tractors have what is commonly known as the Ferguson system.

INSTALLATION OF THE POSITION CONTROL

The ZANE THANG device comes with assembly instructions and pictures strictly for the purpose of instruction for installation and are not to be reproduced or published. All printed material furnished is copyrighted. I do not furnish pictures of the device except for instructional purposes. Everyone has been gracious enough to honor my wishes as of today. That should tell you something about people who own Ford tractors! :O)

Nothing has to be altered to install the attachment to allow you to have position control on the 9N 2N or TO 20 etc. It bolts onto the outside onto the existing components. It takes only minutes to install with a few common hand tools. It will hold a boom pole, bush hog or any other implement in the position where you put it and will not drift either up or down until you move the control handle just as you normally would if it were an 8N with Henry�s position control.

The original control handle is used to operate the lift from the seat just as it is from the factory. The only difference being that now you will be able to control the height or position of the implement positively.

The draft control will still be effective with the attachment installed. Just set the stop block supplied and it will return to the set depth you are wanting to plow. I have one on my TO 20 and I just get excited every time I go out to use the tractor now. I have had this old girl for 34 years and always had to have chains and bars etc. to use my hay rake or draw bar when pulling the trailer etc. Now all I have to do is move the original touch control handle up or down just as you would on an 8N and put the lift where you want it and it stays there.
This option is especially nice when using a bush hog, a snow plow, a box blade, an angle blade, post hole digger or any other implement that requires infinite height control of the lift arms.

You take your hand off the control handle and the lift stays where it is put as long as the engine and pump is running. There is no interference with the draft control. It will work just the same as before. However the quadrant stop for the draft control depth adjustment that is attached to the slot in the quadrant must be removed as it is no longer needed for draft as it will work with the setting of the device.

SHIPPING

I am now shipping my position control attachment designed for the 9/2N Ford and the TO 20 Ferguson tractors etc.

The price is $85.00 in the USA. This includes the shipping. Shipping outside the US is extra and the price is $ 107.50 US dollars. And also includes the shipping costs.

Just send a money order or a personal check and let me know when and where you want it shipped. I will wait till the check clears the bank before I ship. I will ship the money order the next working day.
If you are not satisfied just ship it back to me in good working order and I will refund your money less the shipping charges.

The device is completely guaranteed to do what I say it will and to your satisfaction or I will return your money less the shipping charges plus five dollars for handling if returned with in 30 days of the sale when I receive the unit back in good condition.

Over 500 units sold all over the English speaking world with lots of positive feedback.My address is
Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160.
Phone 256 268 2327 [email protected]

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DTefft

11-12-2004 17:37:12




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to ZANE, 11-10-2004 05:38:13  
Great e-mail. Thanks for all the detail! I took off the right side cover and I cannot see any leaks coming from the top cylinder or high pressure tube but I can see oil swirling around on the inside of the pump.(pump/PTO engaged/clutch, tractor running) Not at the back of the pump but within the pump body, I'd call it a yoke. I am going to drain the trans oil because I'm not too keen of sticking my fingers in the tractor with it running. I'm hoping that the control valve is just stuck. I did have some trouble mowing this year where the mower stayed in the up position.
I have never had trouble maintaining lift height or weight and the pump doesn't knock

I'm still confused on one issue, however, is the control valve and the relief valve the same thing or two different things. Can you tell me how to tell which is which when they're covered with oil?

Thanks again.

David

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DTefft

11-12-2004 18:27:14




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to DTefft, 11-12-2004 17:37:12  
Update note: The control valve "T" is not connected to the rods. I'm having a devil of a time getting them back in place. Is the TO-20 the same as the 9N? The "T" just rests in place in the eyelets from the tension of the rods?

There IS a lot of grit and sludge in the bottom of the trans so I am going to drain it all out like you suggested and flush it with kerosene.

I'll let you know what the verdict is tomorrow.

Thanks again.

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John (UK)

11-08-2004 10:55:56




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to Dtefft, 11-07-2004 16:40:45  
Most likely the Control Valve is stuck if it happened like that. Remove a side cover and follow control fork down, move the control lever and see if it moves the control fork at the bottom end where it fastens to the valve it should move in and out of the pump, if it doesnt just help it gently to unstick, if it still doesnt work email me at fergusontractors at hotmail dot com and I will send you more detailed intructions

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Dtefft

11-08-2004 11:16:23




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to John (UK), 11-08-2004 10:55:56  
Thanks to all that responded. I will be pulling to cover off tonight. The PTO turns and there are no leaks. I'm betting the valve is stuck because I have had a couple of situations where it has stuck with the lift in the up position.

Other than cleaning (or replacing) the valve is there any other hints or tricks with this valve.

David



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John (UK)

11-10-2004 12:51:08




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 Re: To-20 Hydralic broke in reply to Dtefft, 11-08-2004 11:16:23  
If this valve persists in sticking you could change it or remove it and see if there are any marks on it and polish it with metal polish (NO fine emery here) but basically there isn"t much you can do with it. It could be the implement you are using that could be causing some problems with the top link connection, we have had this quite a few times this year. I must add that they are not Ferguson implements that cause the problem they are usually multi-category ones that will fit cat 1 and cat 2 linkage and sometimes the top link is used in the Cat 2 link position and this causes the top link rocker to bind in operation and stick, the top link should always be used in Cat 1 position so it runs at the correct angle and prevents anything like this happening.Also if its a converted implement the top link connection should be 18 1/2" above the lower link connection pins, if it"s not these dimensions it can cause problems.

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Ray,IN

11-07-2004 20:50:39




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 Re: To-20 Hydraulic broke in reply to Dtefft, 11-07-2004 16:40:45  
First thing is to insure the PTO shaft is turning with a load attached to it. You may have a broken shaft. I suggest inspecting the hydraulics for leaks. Remove the right side inspection cover below the seat, where the dip stick for the hyd oil level is located. Start the tractor at idle, using an inspection mirror and flashlight, look all around the insides for oil either streaming down from above or spraying from above the oil level. If you see turbulence in the oil reservoir, the relief valve may be stuck open. There is a port on top cover that may be used to install a temporary high pressure gage( valve is set to 2,100psi), if you do not discover any such leaks. This will then indicate either the pump is not creating oil pressure or the relief valve is stuck wide open. Hope this helps.

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