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I've had good luck moving snow with a 35 and a rear mounted blade. It just takes some planning and practice. For starters, you have to have a place to push the snow to. If your drive is cut out of banks or has bushes on both sides, you won't be able to push snow off the drive too many times. The first time it snows, you have to push the stuff as far off the road as you can. Don't just push it over far enough to get a car through. Leave yourself enough room to push off plenty more snow. Once the snow sits a few days it becomes much more packed and harder to move. Also - Plan for drifting. If you push a ridge up on the west side of the drive, high winds from the west will drift it in so deep you'll never get through it. So always turn your blade to plow the snow downwind. Tire chains will make your tractor work better than one twice it's size. Can't emphasize that enough. You can pile snow up pretty high by turning your blade around backwards. Shorten up your top link as far as you can. Then as you're backing up, raise the blade. This will lift snow up along with the blade and give you extra weight over the rear wheels. If you go with a rear mounted blade, I'd suggest getting one designed for a MUCH bigger tractor. Around here you can buy a cheap, lighweight blade for around $200 or so. But your much better off going to a farm equipment dealer and getting one that's made for a 60 to 70 HP tractor. They're much heavier and will do a much better job than the cheap ones. And they are MUCH better for dirt work and ditching. And you won't tear it up like you will a lightweight blade. That's my 2 cents worth anyway...
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