Spark Plug for TED20 - 1950

Thanks a lot. Simon

Can you advise? Thanks

Thought I would add my two-penneth on the Lead debate having had it from both the old cars I have (one 1954, one 1968). The concensus is that valve seat recesion only happens when engines exceed 3500 rpm. I run the 1950's machine, like my TED, on unleaded as this level of rpm is rarely used. The other car I use an additive, but I have to say I have not actually heard of anyone having to reseat their valves as a result of not using leaded or lead additives - yet!

On the sparkpluk front, I just pop-down my local motor factors who give me some Denso R7 equivalents - can't remember the number though.

Keep up the excellent advice.

I must admit that I am in favour of unleaded, for historical and other reasons. When I had the head rebuilt the company did say (when I asked them to make sure I had seats in for unleaded) that it was not necessary as the engine was pre-lead anyway.

The same company also added 'self-lubricating' valve guides when the head was rebuilt.

Yes, you are quite right that there is a scavenging system for oil vapour from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold, and yes it will help lubricate the inlet valve guides 'downhill' of the oil in the rocker cover.

John (UK) I did manage to sort out the control valve setting in the end - I followed the instructions on the Holland-Brand website, and also looked carefully at the geometry of the plough and top link.

My feeling is that the plough is a bodge of a 3 furrow to a two furrow, and is Cat II to Cat I converted - none too well.

Upshot is that the top link angle was incorrect, causing pressure on the top link mechanism when the plough was lifted out of the ground, leading to the valve being operated to 'lift' the plough - consequently when the plough was lifted out of the ground, it wouldn't drop it again.

Simple really, it just took a while to figure it out.

Thanks all.

Also, I came across some info courtesy of the Minor Owners' club, on control boxes.

Basically, the bottom line is that they are set to operate at different temperatures, so mucking around with their insides on a trial basis is not advised - if it ain't working, replace it is very much the message.

That said, I intend at some point in the future to write an article for FOFH to explain how it should be done - but when that will be I don't know - it's been in the 'Planning' phase for over a year already!!!

Thanks for your email re 732 Mower manual - a chap tried to sell me one for 20 GBP, that's half what I paid for the mower and I want to use it, not leave it on a shelf in it's wrapper!