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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum

Think I just cracked my block !

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gshadel

02-23-2004 07:13:41

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I'm rebuilding my TO-20, it was burning oil real bad and had a thin oil layer in the radiator that I had been watching since I got the tractor. Never noticed water in the oil though. I suspected bad head gasket, pulled the head, looked for cracks between the cylinders. Didn't see any cracks to my relief. I noticed a few drops of antifreeve clinging to the oil pump and the bottom of the sleeves when I pulled the oil pan. Thought might have some bad seals on the sleeves. Pulled the sleeves using a pipe/allthread puller being careful the pipe wasn't close to the edge of the sleeve. Thought I was in good shape. I was cleaning the block to install new sleeves and see CRACKS between the cylinders on the top of the block ! Didn't see those before, I didn't see then when I pulled the sleeves either, but I'm thinking maybe that's what brought the cracks to the top of the block. Maybe they were always there and now they really stand out with everything cleaned real good. Maybe I was careless and cracked the block... don't know.
The cracks are tight, I can't get anything into them. I was going to try to solder them, but lost my nerve soon as I lit my torch. Now I'm thinking of grinding them out with a dremel , drilling a whole through the crack below the top sealing lip and filling the crack and hole on both sides with JB Weld. I know stop leak and the head gasket will stop most leaking, I guess I'm more worried about the block shifting when I install the new sleeves or down the road and making the crack worse.
Any suggestions would be helpful thanks.

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Paul in AZ

02-24-2004 12:40:14

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

Mac Tractor Parts sells outright (or exchanges) refurbished Continental engine blocks. 1-800-882-4742.

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John

02-24-2004 11:24:30

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

I had the exact same problem on 1948 TO-20. I took the block to a crank rebuilder in Cincinnati. They drilled thru the block in 6 places and pulled the block together using threaded rod, then skim cut the top of the block. I put the motor back together and used a ceramic block sealant in the radiator. Followed directions on can, drained radiator installed anti freeze and everything has been good for 1 year of bush hogging and snow plowing. Cost $300

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Jerry/MT

02-24-2004 10:22:02

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

Those cracks you found are pretty common on the Continental Z engines. I had them on the Z129 in my TO-30. I replaced the engine with a remanufacture short block because it was plum wore out (rings, bearings, the thrust washer allowed an 1/8" end play on the crank, etc.)The new block was furnaced or oven brazed to repair those cracks when they remanufactured it. You might check the machine shops in your area to find out who does that type of work in your area. It is has become a common repair method for cracked blocks on sleeved engines.

I seriuosly doubt than repairing it with JB Weld or solder, etc will give you a reliable fix. Hope this helps.

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Fred OH

02-24-2004 09:12:45

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

You probably didn't crack it...it might have been done 40 years ago...first time the tractor engine got real hot from not cleaning the chaff off of the radiator or lost a radiator hose or water pump...my opinion. For the upper cracks I've seen repair jobs where the mechanic drilled a hole through the block...down an inch or so from the top...right between the cylinders and put a hard steel bolt in it and tightened it up. Then, vee-ed out the crack on the head and welded it up with a nickel type welding rod and ground and filed it down flush.

For the bottom cracks...they can be vee-ed out and cold welded with a nickel type electrode. Sometimes the weld will have porosity because of the oil in the crack contaminating it...they must be vee-ed out and welded again till it's right. Then the welds must be carefully ground down flush with the cylinder bores so the new sleeve o-rings will seal. A quarter inch die grinder is best for this...and a good feel with the fingers running over the welds to tell you when enough is enough. Then, after assembly, add a couple of containers of radiator stop leak type sealer to the radiiator...and thats about as good as it gets unless you want to strip the block and send it to one of those cold weld companies and pay a heavy price. Some folks just run them with cracks in them and use them for light duty and hope for the best...or get all nervous and trade them off, Theres your choices...make your decisions on how you want yours and go from there. Fred OH

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Dan S (NY)

02-23-2004 18:26:00

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

I have always been told that cracks at the top of the block between the cylinders will be sealed by the head gasket. Its cracks where the bottom of the sleeves seal that you have to look out for.

Dan

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George

02-23-2004 08:45:11

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Re: Think I just cracked my block ! in reply to gshadel, 02-23-2004 07:13:41

Here is one place to check- [email protected] or 1-800-228-2625 Good Luck, George

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