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Ross, I can no say I'm an expert and I had to learn the hard way and this was a first time for me as I tried to keep costs to a minimum, but here is a quick resume of what I did working on the basis that the engine was not burning oil or smoking when I first got it home. The frost damage not only cracked the block but blew the head gasket by lifting the head:
- Got myself a good workshop manual (offered on CD on eBay)
- Remove all ancilliaries (starter, tank, manifold - use great care with this, dynamo, radiator etc.). Take notes as to what goes where, especially on the wiring side.
- I put big solid blocks of wood under engine and transmission - makes it easier to line up when putting it all back together and I have no lifting gear besides your normal hydraulic jack (x2)
- remove front axle. I found it easier to split the drag links at the axle end rather than steering box end. Radius arms removed at the gearbox end.
- Remove cyclinder head - mine appears to be OK if a bit sooty.
- split engine from gearbox by sliding apart but supported by the wooden blocks
- mark position of flywheel. I had a new starter ring fitted as a large proportion of the teeth where in the bell housing. This is had done at my local agricultural engineers as well as having the sleeves removed
- Remove and number the order of push rods
- Remove sump
- Mark where TDC on piston one is on the Crank hwwl and tining cover with a dab of paint - make it easier to find TDC and the dowel hole on the flywheel and crank casing. - Remove pistons - look a bit worn but did not replace (cost and I can always do this without splitting the engine at a later date. Remeber to number if thay are not.
- Mark orientation and position of the liners. Remove liners but I left the crank and camshaft in situ. My liners had to come out as they had sunk below the block surface.
- Sent off for welding.
Reassembly was a reverse procedure, notes as follows:
- The liners I replaced with some blue gasket sealent at the bottom. - I also put some JB weld on the inside of the crack. - I replaced the thrust bearing, pilot bearing, clutch and clutch housing.
- Sump and flywheel (+ clutch)all bolted to the block and eased back to the gearbox. I used some long bolts passed through the crank case flange to bell housing to help line up and bring the two bits together whilst turning the crankshaft to help line up the input shaft whith the clutch
- Put all the rest back on with new gaskets and a new home made wiring loom - the other lacked any insulation at various strategic points.
- The manifold I put on with some exhaust sealant where it was blowing due to corrosion
- Found TDC and followed the book on static timing etc. Set the tappets - I need to do them again when I retorque the cylinder head as everthing will have settled down a bit.
- Follow the book on setting the governer up - it reads a lot more difficult than it is, but I still need to rebuild (because it leaks) and adjust my carb
- Charge your battery, fill your tank, use new spark plugs, cross your fingers and try and start it! Mine started first time once I put in new plugs
- Do some victory laps of your field, then find you forgot to tighten the lock-nut on your choke knob! southern Counties do have them and thank you. Good Luck!
Robert
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