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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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brake adjustment

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Middle Age Man

10-21-2003 17:55:17




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Can anyone out there tell me how to adjust the brakes on my TO30? They work a little when I'm on the level, but on a hill they are inadequate. How much drag should there be and do I have to jack up each rear wheel to check the drag? I don't even know which way to turn the adjuster, where the access is and whether a special tool is required.When I set the brakes there is no way they will hold the tractor on an incline. Also the right side brake pedal (not the independent pedal) seems to be prevented from going down very far by the rod underneath it. Thanks for your help.

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Randy

10-24-2003 13:27:57




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 Re: brake adjustment in reply to Middle Age Man, 10-21-2003 17:55:17  
Folks: I adjusted mine recently and found that the drums had been removed at some time and the adjusters put in upside down. So I had to take off the wheels and drums to get the adjusters put in right. Also I found the left drum and shoes to be oily, so I cleaned them in brake cleaner in a spray can. Did both sides and it worked well. Then I found the pivot pins on the ends of the right brake rod to be siezed up so bad I couldn't pull them to allow me to adjust the rod length. So I cut the pins out with a grinder, made the adjustments, and put in bolts that fit the clevis and cotter pins to hold them in. I know the bolts aren't the right thing, I'll eventually put the right pins in. The brakes work good now!

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Ray,IN

10-21-2003 20:57:57




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 Re: brake adjustment in reply to Middle Age Man, 10-21-2003 17:55:17  
Here goes! First drive your tractor and use each wheel brake(using light pressure) to burnish each wheels brake shoes and wear off some dirt and oil if present or rust on the brake hub. Jack up the rear end and support with jack stands so rear wheels spin freely. Adjust each wheel brake at the slot to the rear of the axle hub. To tighten the brakes push the screw driver handle towards the axle housing until the wheel will not turn by hand. Now back off the adjustment until the wheel turns freely to the minimal/no drag point(both should feel the same). You have now adjusted the brakes but still need to adjust the brake linkage to obtain equal braking on both sides. My method does this on level ground on dirt or gravel.First lubricate the moving points to eliminate binding. If one wheel slides first shorten the linkage to the other wheel with the clevis on the threaded rod until both wheels slide evenly. The main pedal should not trave more than 1/2 way down or you need to shorten both rods. If you have good brake shoes you should be able to slide both wheels evenly on most any surface. These are mechanical brakes and require more foot pressure than your modern auto. If you still don't have adequate braking perhaps the shoes need replacing from being contaminated with oil, grease, dirt, or are just worn out. Harry Ferguson brakes are very similar to auto brakes except the shoes are mounted top/bottom instead of front/back. I hope this explanation is clearer than I think it is.

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Middle Aged Man

10-22-2003 18:09:44




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 Re: Re: brake adjustment in reply to Ray,IN, 10-21-2003 20:57:57  
Many thanks to Ray and john and Fred for all of the detailed instructions. I think I know how to do this now. If not, I will post another message.



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john(UK)

10-22-2003 12:13:04




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 Re: Re: brake adjustment in reply to Ray,IN, 10-21-2003 20:57:57  
The brake rods need to be checked that they are the same length or you will play around all day with it, if the rods are original and have not been damaged in any way, just check that the front adjustable turnbuckle has the same number of threads showing behind the nut as the opposite side. You can also try centralising the brake shoes in the drum by slackening off the two large nuts on the brake back plate (one either side of the thick brake rod that runs into the drum) and adjust the brakes up tight then hit the rod on the top then the bottom a couple of times to shock it so it will move slightly, then tighten the two nuts again and back off the brakes each side till they rotate feely and then test as before. Both wheels should start sliding at the same time if they are balanced. Just one other thing to check that either of the independant brakes are not sticking or siezed or that will cause you problems too. PULL the side brake pedals UP one at a time, if the brake rods start to bend the rear linkage is seized (where the brake rods meet the side brakes on the thick rod into the drum) and needs to be freed off before you can set the brakes up correctly.

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Fred OH

10-22-2003 09:11:34




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 Re: Re: brake adjustment in reply to Ray,IN, 10-21-2003 20:57:57  
You done just fine Ray...might add if one (or both) brakes aren't worth a dime, could be that oil is leaking from axle seal and soaking shoes and no amount of adjusting will help that situation. Maybe cleaning shoe and drum in gas or other solvent (temporary fix) and parking tractor with leaking side uphill till you get time to replace seal. Fred OH



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