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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TEA crown wheel bolts - revisited

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Jim W

09-07-2003 07:03:38




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Picked up these nuts and bolts yesterday, everything looks good. (Thanks again John for the Sparex suggestion.) I notice the nuts are the deep type, like you'd find on the U-bolts for trailer axles for example.
This implies fastening with high torque, but since the original assembly was put together with rivets, I do not have a torque spec.
Any recommendations?
TIA,
Jim W.
PS The *&^%$ bolts have slot head! Grrr...

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cdmn

09-11-2003 20:54:36




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 Re: TEA crown wheel bolts - revisited in reply to Jim W, 09-07-2003 07:03:38  
The design and application of fasteners is a pretty complicated field of engineering. In general, you should torque them to just about 90% of failure, found out by torquing a number of samples past failure and throwing them into the scrap. All bets are off with gaskets. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations. You can be too tight. Some recommend torquing to a certain level and then rotating 1/4 or 1/2 turn, etc. It is very important to be consistently clean and to use the same grease under nut and in threads. A bolt will not stay tight if it indents under the nut or head. Use hardened washers. Longer bolts will stay tighter longer than short bolts. In most high-performance situations, you don't load a bolt in shear. You use dowel pins to carry the shear load, just use the bolts to maintain tension. The nut's length is not too significant unless there are tricks involved, such as counterbored threads at the joint side, or pinched or distorted locking threads at the outside. For course threads with equal strength in bolt and nut, perhaps only 3 or 4 threads are needed to pull-fail the bolt. A high strength capscrew may require only 2 diameters of engagement in a soft aluminum threaded hole. Often studs have course threads on the inner end and fine threads at the outer end. This probably makes the weak link at the nut, made of weaker material, instead of breaking the stud by overtorqueing or overloading.

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john(UK)

09-07-2003 08:50:24




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 Re: TEA crown wheel bolts - revisited in reply to Jim W, 09-07-2003 07:03:38  
Hi Jim, No nothing on that at all, but I think you may be worrying unecessarily, probably the nuts are just stock ones and just look like that, cant see Sparex making special ones for that or they would be charging a lot more than they do. I would think if you tighten them down like a cylinder head it will be ok



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Jim W

09-07-2003 18:22:07




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 Re: Re: TEA crown wheel bolts - revisited in reply to john(UK), 09-07-2003 08:50:24  
John,
Have you ever seen the video, put out by FoFH, of the Banner Lane factory making Fergusons? There is a segment in there where they rivit the crown wheel to the carrier with some kind of electric arc machine and it looks like it is applying lots of force.
At any rate I guess I will torque them in a sequence as you suggest, to some fairly high number that seems right at the time. Thanks for the input,
Jim

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John

09-08-2003 12:33:14




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 Re: Re: Re: TEA crown wheel bolts - revisited in reply to Jim W, 09-07-2003 18:22:07  
Yes I think I did see it a long time ago...but remember they are rivetting it on so some force would be needed, much more than you tighteneing a nut up dont you think. Hope it goes well for you.



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