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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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broken

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Paul F B

08-09-2003 17:28:49




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I broke the cast iron piece that the top link attaches to. I need to get it off but am unable to move the pipelike piece that the thing swivels on. I tried pounding it out, but it did not seem to move at all. Anyone know the trick? Is it supposed to come out of there? Thanks Paul




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larry

08-12-2003 04:20:24




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 Re: broken in reply to Paul F B, 08-09-2003 17:28:49  
Okay, took mine out yesterday, the pin is of some type of cast material(at least it sparked like cast) very hard. torched it out, or at least enought so i could drive it out. this takes a light touch. what is this pin called,so i can order a new one.



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Dennis

08-11-2003 19:35:23




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 Re: broken in reply to Paul F B, 08-09-2003 17:28:49  
Paul,

I had to get that yoke off of a parts tractor I have here last week for another guy who broke his. I was able to get between the yoke legs and the tractor housing with a hacksaw and sawed the bushing off on both sides of the housing. Once the yoke was removed, I was able to determine that that bushing has a slit in it. Using a big punch from an angle, it was quite easy to collapse the portion of the bushing that remained in the housing. That bushing is 3/4" ID and 1" OD and is readily available from someone like Motion Industries or even a Category 2 to 1 toplink adaptor bushing would do!

Dennis

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Batman

08-12-2003 00:12:22




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 Re: Re: broken in reply to Dennis, 08-11-2003 19:35:23  
Paul, you were lucky - over here that bushing is welded tube, hardened, tempered, and galvanised - no way you can cut it with a hacksaw, or deform it enough to remove it with a decent sized punch.

In view of the stresses the bush sees when in use, I would hazard a guess that 'your' bushing was, shall we say, an 'unapproved' fix.



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Batman

08-11-2003 04:14:03




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 Re: broken in reply to Paul F B, 08-09-2003 17:28:49  
I have had to do the same job - only to renew the 'pipe' that the hinged link pivots round.

Remove the RH wheel and mud guard - that way you get better access with the BFH (4lbs is good).

Make up a drift that will fit through the hinge pin support on the axle, but will not pass thro the 'pipe' you need to remove, i.e. is in two parts, and stepped appropriately.

Apply BFH to drift repeatedly, adding PB blaster, WD40 or similar at regular intervals. The hardened 'pipe' is a press fit into cast iron and needs effort to shift it outwards, and eventually through the larger hole in the LH hinge-pin hole.

Be very careful if you adopt the threaded rod/nut approach as cast iron is not good with shear stress and is liable to crack with no warning, leaving you with a bigger problem than you first had.

TIP: on reassembly, cover everything in copper-based grease before drifting it back in again - someone will thank you for it in 50 years time, and it will make it easier for you if you have to remove it again.

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tractorfix

08-09-2003 19:43:37




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 Re: broken in reply to Paul F B, 08-09-2003 17:28:49  
You need to make a tool. I made mine with a hunk of 5/8 theaded rod, a pipe, and some nuts and washers. Basically, you use the nut to pull the pipe/pin into the larger pipe. Sometimes you need to grind the corners off the one nut so it will pass thru the knuckle. A little heat would likely go a long way too.
Good luck!



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Paul F B

08-09-2003 18:05:29




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 Re: broken in reply to Paul F B, 08-09-2003 17:28:49  
Forgot to add that it's a 54' Tea.



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