Paul,
It was John and I who were having the discussion - and I think I can answer your question as I checked mine for operation and adjustment a few months ago.With no implement mounted on the back, put a clevis pin through the top link (hinged) bracket, then place a two or three foot length of steel bar (vertically) so that you can lever the top link forwards (towards the driver). This simulates what the plough should be doing when it hits hard ground, and the lower links should begin to lift in response. You may not see any appreciable movement on the link, but the arms should lift anyway in response to what movement there is. Having checked that that part of the system works, the next thing to do is to mount the plough on the tractor, and lift it off the ground. Then, try to rotate the compression spring which is at the back of the top link. If it is loose, and turns easily, you will need to tighten it, if you can just and only just turn it, it is fine, and if you can't turn it at all, it is too tight. To adjust the spring compression - undo the top hinged link, and rotate the connector on the shaft at the end of the spring - it may be stuck - DO NOT FORCE IT!!!!! patience and lots of PB blaster, heat, and time will be needed as the threads are very fine, and when rusted, they really stick. Forcing it will cause damage inside the hydraulics, and you will then have another problem to deal with that has no new spares available. TIP - if you get it freed up, remove it completely, and coat the threads with lots of copper-based grease to stop it sticking again. Then, with the plough only just off the ground go to the back end of the plough and heave it up a bit. The tractor should sense this, and lift the plough for you. See also this link for other hints and tips. The quadrant adjustment is also critical, and is incredibly sensitive to adjustment - start with this before diving into the above adjustments - you could save time and effort.
|
