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TO 30 questions

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Steve

12-16-2002 19:49:48




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Greetings Fergie Fans. I am a new owner of a TO 30 and am beginning the job of all those little jobs that it needs to be A-1 again. Thought that I would start with the rear PTO shaft seal. I have gone to the local dealer and purchased the seal, sleeve ( for where the seal rides on the shaft ) oil ( GL1 ) and am basically ready to tackle it. I have read through the manual and think that it is something that I can do OK. Appears that you remove the bolts at the rear, slide the unit out, swap the parts, and reinstall. Basically, I am wondering the follwoing things:
1) Is this as easy as it sounds?
2) Any "normal" pitfalls to avoid, or things to watch out for?
3) Anything that I want to make sure to do ( or make sure NOT to do)?
The tractor is at my small Christmas Tree farm and has lost the oil from the seal at the PTO. I intend to drive it home to my garage to work on it. I intend to change all the fluids in it and inspect it for more repairs. If I understand the manual the oil is in a " common " reservoir with 3 sumps - one for tranny, one for rear end, and one for the hydraulic. Should I top off the oil before I drive it home even if I am not going to be running the PTO? Could I make it home without wasting that oil as long as I did not run the PTO? Any suggestions will be welcome. I think that it will make me a super tractor, and it belonged to my grandad before he passed away. My uncle had it, and now it has made it's way to me. Still generally in very good shape, but has been a working tractor and has its share of things I would like to restore. Figured I would start with fresh fluids, and didn't see and use of doing that until I got it to where they would stay in the tractor. Thanks for your advice. Happy Holidays

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Jeff

12-17-2002 09:13:28




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 Re: TO 30 questions in reply to Steve, 12-16-2002 19:49:48  
If the sumps are like the -20's, which I think they are, Then there is only ONE (1) resavor for all the back end systems, (PTO, Wheels, AND Transmission)

The three sumps are to help get all the fluid out of this one cavity.

Make sure before you run dry.

Jeff



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Phil (VA)

12-17-2002 06:58:02




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 Re: TO 30 questions in reply to Steve, 12-16-2002 19:49:48  
It's an easy job. You could change it where it sits by driving it in a ditch to let the fluid go forward and then remove the shaft as you say. Especially since it isn't full now anyway. You didn't tell us how far you have to drive it to get it home, but the main concern of course would be the differential if it is dry, again depending on how far you have to go. The wheel bearings could be an issue as well. Perhaps put a couple of gallons of fluid in it to be sure....

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Ray,IN

12-17-2002 18:33:20




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 Re: Re: TO 30 questions in reply to Phil (VA), 12-17-2002 06:58:02  
I agree with Phil about doing the repair where it sits, only I'd completely drain the 3 areas to remove the contaminated oil and gunk before installing new 80/90wt straight mineral oil(6 gal). IF you have a replacement shaft with 1 3/8" spline you'll have to press off the bearing to replace the seal, if you have the original 1 1/8" spline you can remove the housing from that end without needing to remove the bearing. Either way you can perform this without moving the tractor. You're right, it is an easy job, just a tad greasy.

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