Hydraulic will not lower -detailed question-

My problem as I see it, is the fork that attaches to the control valve is not moving enough or soon enough. With the quadrant adjusted all the way in one direction, the fork will not move until the handle is within 2" of full down. Adjusting the quadrant the other way results in no movement of the fork. [This is observed thru the openings where the dipstick and PTO control lever are located.]

I suspect I have bent something, but what? The fork was off the control valve when I first looked at it. The key is intact on the quadrant shaft and it is neither broken or apparently bent. Everything else looks normal to me, nothing bent or excessivly worn.

Has anyone else had a problem similar to this? I probably messed it up by using my dirt scoop in reverse, [I know better now!]

I appreciate any help you can give.

Greg

Sometimes people will put a shim under the draft spring anchor plate. This is located behind the three bolts that are directly at the back of the lift housing. The big spring yoke has to be removed to get at it though and sometimes it takes red hot heat to make the yoke turn loose after all these years of rusting away. Don't use too much force or you can break the shaft etc.

If there is a shim that has been added there remove it and this will cause the position of the touch control handle to come up the quadrant. The linkage could be bent inside to achieve the same thing. The reason this is sometimes done is that with wear and tear the linkage will get to the point that the touch control handle will keep moving up toward the top of the quadrant until it won't lift anymore and then people start looking for ways to fix it.

Anything you can do to make the inside linkage move back toward the draft spring anchor plate will raise the position where the touch control begins to work.

Looking at the quadrant lever shaft in the pictures provided in the I & T manual, it appears the keyway and the bend on the other end of the shaft is on the same plane. ie, in line with one another.

If so, mine is twisted almost 90 degrees! If I could move the keyway about 90 degrees, then it would contact the fork sooner, and thus lower the 3PH.

The question is, does the bend in the shaft line up with the keyway? Or close to it?

Greg

By adjusting it now, I can observe the forks start to move when the lever is within 1/2" from the bottom. If I adjust the quadrant in the other direction [via the 4 bolts/slotted holes] the fork will not move. I did mention, didn't I that the shaft and key appear OK? [not sheared or bent/broken]

The spring is in place and undamaged, HOWEVER, a second spring is attached loosely to the fork. Why?...I don't have a clue!

I just might try attaching the second spring on the fork and try it. One thing for sure, it won't be any worse than it is now.
Thanks again,
Greg

How far back the shaft #10 sits affects the position of the fork. The base plate #7 at the forward end of this spring tends to rust away; I put a big thick washer there and got some of my adjustment range back. You can also adjust this by rotating piece #2 on the rear end of the shaft, but it tends to be extremely difficult due to the very fine pitch threads and the 50 years.
Jim W.

• The diagram

The plate is rusted a little and is [as I remember] slightly buldged outward. The tractor is outside now, and due to it being dark-about midnight- I will look tommorrow. I may try the washer trick-it can't hurt.
Greg

Good luck

• Big D's MF information