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TO30 Questions

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Jim

09-30-2002 10:03:28




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This is a two-parter. 1) At the base of the gearshift lever on my TO30, there is a small hole through which there apparently should be something called "shift lever pin". Mine is missing. Is there anything that I can rig up as a replacement without compromising the function of the shifter? If not, where can I get a replacement?
2) I've got motor oil dripping out from the clutch/flywheel housing. I'm guessing that I've got a bad rear crankshaft oil seal. Is that a reasonable assumption? My IT manual says that I have to split the tractor to replace it. Is there any way to replace it without doing so? I'm really not looking forward to the chore. Thanks all.

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Dale in WV

09-30-2002 17:56:06




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 Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Jim, 09-30-2002 10:03:28  
As for your number one, I just checked my "work in progress" TO-30, and no matter what OEM would have preferred, my wife's uncle and former owner installed a cotter pin. It works!
Number two - I think some other postings will support the big split as the inevitable solution. I've seen a cat litter pan under tractors before.... Absorbent, yet fresh??



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dennis in Ma

10-01-2002 08:25:50




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 Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Dale in WV, 09-30-2002 17:56:06  
the new real seal is one that requires the tractor to be split, the flywheel removed and the seal slipped over the crankshaft from the rear. It's a great sealing system and I highly recommend it. I wouldn't waste my time yanking the pan down and trying to monkey with any old seals from the bottom.



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Jim

09-30-2002 19:37:15




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 Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Dale in WV, 09-30-2002 17:56:06  
Thanks for the tips. I don't think a cat litter pan would solve my problem though. It's not neatness I'm worried about. There's a significant amount of oil dripping out of there. I'll probably tackle the tractor split, which brings up another question. When you put it back together, is there a gasket or anything that is supposed to go where the halves bolt up?



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dennis in Ma

10-01-2002 08:27:23




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 Re: Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Jim, 09-30-2002 19:37:15  
There is no gasket where the two bolt together. The engine and the bell housing are what connect and there's no need for a seal there.



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Ray,IN

09-30-2002 18:59:56




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 Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Dale in WV, 09-30-2002 17:56:06  
I've never tried it, but a mechanic friend says that the rear shaft seal can be replaced by loosening the shaft bearings, picking out the old seal with dental picks( like a dentist uses) and pulling a new one through with a flexible tool made for this job. You might inquire around some oldtimers repair shops for information. I think this tool is sold by J.C. Whitney, so a auto parts store should have one.

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Larry in Missouri

10-01-2002 10:04:10




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 Re: Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Ray,IN, 09-30-2002 18:59:56  
Replace the rear main seal from inside the engine? How in the heck did anyone do that? The seal is in a stamped metal carrier that bolts to the back of the block, over the end of the crank, where the flywheel bolts on. I have replace it a time or two, and I cannot even picture in my head how you would fish that thing out from inside the block!

It really isn't as nasty as it sounds to replace that seal. Follow the I&T instructions for splitting the tractor, remove the flywheel (it's heavy!) and remove the 5 (I think - it's been a while) 1/4" bolts that hold the seal carrier to the block. Two of them actually bolt through from inside the engine, you will see the threaded places on the carrier.

A common source of leakage is when these little bolts are overtightened, distorting the rather thin metal seal carrier. I had to pound the mating surface of this thing straight, since it wouldn't seal up to the back of the block, it had bulged out where the bolts had been cranked down. A new seal and a new gasket for the seal carrier were about $15 at my Massey dealer. I also used some gasket sealer just to make sure...

Putting it all back together is pretty easy, the only tricky part is getting the tranny input shaft aligned with the clutch plate. Also, remember that there is a thin sheet metal plate that covers the bottom part of the bell housing. I've bent it more than once forgetting that it's there...

Good luck!

Larry

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Boogity - OH

10-01-2002 08:21:27




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 Re: Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Ray,IN, 09-30-2002 18:59:56  
I word of caution, Ray. If his engine has an old original equip. leather seal in there now you may be able to pick out the old seal and install a new leather seal that way. But it's a lot of difficult work and you're never sure that all of the old seal is out and you're never sure that the new seal is in place correctly. If there has been a newer type of steel cup/neoprene seal installed this method will not work at all. The old type leather seals never did last very long and usually they were replaced with the newer type seal.

I would highly suggest, Dale, that you bite the bullet and split the tractor and do the job correctly. You may spend a lot of time working on replacing a leather seal only to have it go out in 200 hrs. or less. The new seals are sooooo o much better.

I did a complete overhaul in my tool shed last spring and replacing the rear main seal is not very difficult.

Just my opinion.

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Larry, Boogity-

10-01-2002 19:56:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: TO30 Questions in reply to Boogity - OH, 10-01-2002 08:21:27  
Ray,IN here. I'm glad you guys spoke up. Like I said, I've never tried it. My TO30 still doesn't leak much and never been apart, so I haven't been into the engine.



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