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Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD

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Mark Hendershot

02-15-2002 08:14:17




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This pertains to the Fergusons also same Pump and control. Zane knows his stuff too!! Mark H.

BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO THE LIFT IT SHOULD FIRST BE INSPECTED FOR ANY INTERNAL LEAKAGE. GOOD ADJUSTMENT CAN BE DONE WITH A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM BUT FOR GOOD OPERATION AND IN ORDER TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF GOING INTO THE LIFT IT SHOULD BE DONE FIRST BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE IS DONE.
BE SURE THAT THE LIFT IS FULL OF OIL.

I think that you are probably having a combination of problems which is common to the 8N lift. One of the worst offenders is the cam follower pin which is what the position control receives it's input from. The other thing is to look for a leak in the sysyem @ the ram cylinder rings etc and the pressure relief valve. Also there could be a gasket leaking somewhere such as under the ram cylinder where it mates to the lift cover housing.
If you dicide to take the lift off to work on it be sure not to remove any bolt except for the ones around the outsides of the cover. If you should remove a bolt that has fine threads it will be from the inside pattern and you should put it back in the same hole it came from. You can remove them after the cover is on the work bench if it becomes necessary.


You should first take off the right hand inspection plate under the seat on the side of the lift housing.With an implement on the lift start the engine and with the lift in the up position look inside and see if their is oil leaking from the end of the lift ram cylinder.If their is only a slight drip this is normal.If their is a fairly steady stream this may be the trouble.If the oil is coming from somewhere else try to pin point its orign. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. It is located just under the pto shaft on the vertical back of the pump.Sorta shaped like a spark plug and an 11/16" box end wrench fits it. You can check it for leakage by first finding it with the engine off and then with the pump running and with a load and hot put your finger over the end of the relief valve and if it is leaking enough to be a problem you will be able to feel the oil push your finger off the end of the valve slightly.You can check it by washing it up and then soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. If it is leaking you should replace it with a new one. The part # used to be 8N638. Hope this will give you some starting places. Zane in Al.

If the lift does not lift to the top of it�s travel when the touch control handle is raise all the way up then you have linkage problems. Wear and or abuse can bend and wear parts of the linkage to cause this condition.
If the lift needs to be adjusted you will need instructions and a jig to allow you to do the adjustments.

See my web site at ->Link

>Link

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Todd (MI)

02-16-2002 06:16:29




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 Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-15-2002 08:14:17  
Mark and everyone else,
This is from an earlier post on the N board from Zane and seems to be a little more thorough.


The 9N-TO Ferguson lift has no position control.To maintain the lift at a given position the hand must constantly be on the control lever to continually re adjust. I can fix that for you if you will Email me at [email protected] or see the link below.

First thing is to be sure that the PTO is engaged!

The most common places to leak on the lift is the piston rings and the pressure relief valve.
In order to determine where the lift is leaking you should remove the right hand inspection plate that holds the dip stick for the lift oil.If oil runs out when this cover is removed it has too much oil in it and letting it run out is ok.

Start the tractor with a load on the lift arms such as a rotary cutter etc. raise the lift and observe inside the lift to see where the oil is leaking down.If the piston rings are leaking their will be a pretty good stream of oil coming out the end of the ram cylinder. If just a few drops this is ok.
If you should decide to replace the piston rings and you find that the cylinder is scored badly, you should hone the cylinder and instead of replacing the steel piston rings and the original piston you might want to consider replacing the piston and rings with the Ford model NAA piston and the Neoprene Rubber rings. The NAA piston and rings is the same size and the rubber rings will seal much better than the steel rings.

Observe the oil in the resorvoir and if you see the oil swirling around the relief valve is probably leaking.It is the gadget that is screwed into the back of the hydralic pump just under the pto shaft.It will be under the oil and feels something like a spark plug.

If before starting the tractor you will put your hand into the oil and locate the relief valve you can reach in and put one finger over the end of the relief valve and determine if it is leaking after the tractor has again been started. DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF PUTING A FINGER IN THE PUMP MECHANISM!!!!

If however you don't see a signifacant leak from the top you can assume that the relief valve is leaking and simply replace it with a new one and thereby prvent the possible loss of a finger or two.

I;ve never tried itm,but I�ve read that you can drain enough oil from the lift reservoir to uncover the relief valve and see if it is leaking instead of using the obviously dangerous finger feel thing I described.


There could also be a blown gasket somewhere in the upper portion of the lift but if so you will see a lot of oil coming down from the top and then it�s just a case of taking the cover off and finding the culprit.

Be sure to release the control rods from the control valve T on the pump before trying to remove the lift cover. To fail to do so will result in a broken lift control valve stem.
Also be sure that the control linkage is attached at the �T� at the control valve connection.
Zane in Alabama.

If you should be having trouble with the lift not going down when the lever is moved to the down position I would suggest that while the inspection plate is off on the side of the lift housing you reach in and manually push the two levers that go into the oil in the reservoir and are connected to the control valve. The control valve sometimes sticks in the up position. If you should find that you can make it go down by pushing toward the front of the tractor internally on the control rods then you should drain the lift and pour about 5 gallons of clean kerosene through the lift with the drain open. It is best to pour it directly into the inspection hole. Let the kerosene that drains out sit for about 15 minutes and pour it through again leaving the portion that is in the bottom of the container to be discarded. This should have the residue in it that may have been causing the control valve to stick when it was carried into the control valve.

You should also inspect the spring that is connected between the front end of the ram cylinder of the lift to the knee portion of the control rods that go from the linkage at the top to the control valve in the bottom of the pump. This spring sometimes looses it tension from age and usage and must have enough tension on it to pull the control valve out when the lever is moved to the down position.

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Phil (VA)

02-15-2002 13:41:37




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 Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-15-2002 08:14:17  
Yes, you can drain or jack up or drain partially, or put front wheels in ditch, or combination of above, etc. If you remove top cover, go carefully by manual. You must unhook connection thru access hole before cover will come off and this isn't necessarily obvious unless you read the manual. Don't remove top cover unless you have to in order to solve the problem. Perhaps you can get a friend or wife to reach valve thru access hole if your arm is too large. (Can be good marriage test.)

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Mark Hendershot

02-15-2002 08:18:07




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 Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-15-2002 08:14:17  
I would copy (I just did) the above post for use later if you have any problems with you system it is a nice trouble shooting guide to the Hydraulic Pump System. Mark H.



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Todd (MI)

02-15-2002 13:01:52




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 Re: Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-15-2002 08:18:07  
Mark. I've never seen the inside of the inspection cover until today. I think I have a bad pressure relief valve. I do have a small leak like the post said but it's one drip every 30 seconds or so. I'm not sure of the location of the relief valve. I think I found it but am not sure because it was under the oil. Do you drain the oil to get a good look or can I just jack the back of the tractor up? I'm not a small guy so by the time I get my body adjusted so I can see in I have very limited mobility. How do you go about this?

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Mark Hendershot

02-15-2002 16:45:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Todd (MI), 02-15-2002 13:01:52  
Todd; If you want to see some pictures of the pump I have one on ebay #170466722 and you can see all sides of it I have 5-photos posted of it. The saftey relief valve is above the T-Handle for controling the pump. Take a look and you can see it. This is a 9N pump but the same. Not sure if you could remove the valve while in the tractor. You may haft to drop the pump to do it and at least you could clean every thing up at the same time. You will have to drain it all three plugs to. Good luck Mark H.

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Dave

02-17-2002 05:35:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Zanes Comment about the Hydraulic Pumg GOOD in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-15-2002 16:45:15  
I replaced my safty valve this winter, just going through the side cover and the bottom plug hole. It was a little tricky, but doable
Dave



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