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The easiest route is with an alternator with an internal regulator set up for "one wire" operation. That means you hook a hot wire to the alternator and it will charge properly. Your local starter/generator shop will have these. They are used on all kinds of diesel heavy equipment and tractor retrofits. If you are set up for positive ground you need to switch and make the negative ground for most alternators. Then you need to put a resistor in the hot wire to the coil to convert the coil feed back to 6v. Change the bulbs and you are in business. The starter likes 12v, will spin fast and not overheat, and doesn't care which pole is grounded on the battery. You have to be careful building the generator mounts both to get the belt to line up and to get the alternator completely under the hood. It is possible but takes some effort. The belt length is critical because you won't have much adjustment room. I have one Farmall with a Japanese alternator on it. It is smaller even than a D.C. generator but they are expensive. If you don't use a "one wire" alternator you need to know the standard alternator is switched off on cars. If you leave power to it on a tractor, the field coil will drain your battery. If you put it on the coil side of the switch, the alternator will keep the coil hot and the switch doesn't kill the tractor. A second switch works but is not ideal. I have two tractors with two switches and invariably when someone else uses them they either forget to turn on the alternator or turn it off. Both are hard on the battery. I hope someone else tells you where to find aftermarket mounts cause I would buy some. I have a good design, maybe I should make up 100 to sell.
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