brakes - 2656

I found some brake disks here at YT. The basic disk here is $14.43 and the bonded lined disk is $21.06. Is the basic one OEM and is the bonded lined disk worth $7 more apiece? I'm not sure what the bonding and lining does. The caseih dealer gets over $36 per disk. I don't intend to drive it down the interstate at 75 mph but you never know when brakes may save you. Thanks.

This one has the external hub that unbolts from the bull pinion bearing retainer which is flat against the rear end housing. There are no shims and just the actuator disc assembly which stayed together in one piece and the 2 brake discs. The 2 brake discs were 6" in diameter and about 9/16" thick. According to the depth of the slots going around the discs on both sides, there is about 1/16" on one and 1/32" of pad left on the other on each side before they would be worn flat.

I may go ahead and get new discs but it looks like I could clean the gunk out of the hub, sand the rust off the actuator disc surfaces/rotors and put it back together and use it unless you guys tell me different.

Anyone know how thick a new disk is?

Karl, no offense taken. I worded my original statement a little wrong. I'm just out here in the snow, mud, and cold and if I drop something it may be lost and it can take a week or two to order parts cause it doesn't seem like anyone stocks very much. Thanks for the help.

If not, 2/3 of the disc is still there and it won't cost you a thing except some time to remove the cover and then a shim or two.

Allan

If it is a matter of removing the five bolts and looking without everything falling on the ground, then I will do so. I kinda thought the housing and cover were all one piece but I see from the parts diagram that the cover comes off separately.

I see the shims in the diagram but they are out by the outer brake disk and cover but there aren't any shims by the inner brake disk. I've replaced drum and disk brakes on cars and pickups but I don't see how these work. I guess somehow those actuating disks are like rotors and they turn and expand against the brake disks. Looks like it could be a ten minute job but I wouldn't bet the farm when I've never done it before.

Another question is do the actuating disks (like rotors) ever need to be turned smooth like you do with a car?

The mechanical "actuator" works from the inside out in a "swealing" fashion against it's component's total "thickness" and there is only a certain amount of travel no matter how many "washers" you put under that adjustment nut.

This "total thickness" translates into pedal travel and is adjusted by the number of shims at the outer cover. The ballnut is then used as a "fine-tune" adjustment.

The thickness of just one shim makes one heck of a lot of difference.

Good luck. Those old bolts are probably gonna be rusty and hard to get out, but it's a fairly simple procedure.

Also, don't throw those shims away! If you ever have to replace the discs with new, you'll never get the stack together without the shims being there again. :>)

Allan

YT parts didn't list any shims. I've also found that on about anything I do to it, I replace the bolts and use a can of anti-seize on the threads. This tractor has been worked on enough that bolts are rusted and someone else has already buggered up the bolt heads enough I've had to hammer and chisel some loose.

Karl, I can handle most mechanical repairs once I figure out what I'm doing. The I&T manual doesn't really say a whole lot. Kinda like working on dash radio and interior door panels on new vehicles. Some have hidden screws and some don't, some parts just pop loose with a lot of effort and some you have to pull and then lift, etc. You can break that plastic stuff and plastic bolts easy if you pull at the wrong place.

I'll post back when I get the cover off.