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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Supper C starter

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Larry in GA.

10-07-2007 12:45:29




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Super C still all 6 volts Is it as strait forward as it looks to remove the starter? Or is there something hidden that will be a problem when I try to put it back on. I have 6.6 to 6.9 volts all the way to the starter switch. It had been getting a little picky when you pulled on it and now nothing. I was thinking switch but the second screw for the switch is behind the starter.

Thanks for all the help and advice.
Larry

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Idaho Ron

10-07-2007 18:07:10




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 Re: Supper C starter in reply to Larry in GA., 10-07-2007 12:45:29  
When mine did that on my SC and my A I took them appart and used electrical cleaner and a wire brush. They work like new now, and it was a piece of cake to do. Ron



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ScottyHOMEy

10-07-2007 13:05:18




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 Re: Supper C starter in reply to Larry in GA., 10-07-2007 12:45:29  
No, it's pretty straightforward. It'll pull straight out, and it'll slip right straight back in. Shouldn't be anything to line up except the two bolt holes, and make sure the open part on the inside faces the flywheel so the gears can connect.

Only caution I'd toss in is to disconnect your ground before removing the hot cable from the battery to the starter hot post. That's just to avoid some major spitzensparkin, fuzenblowin, framenweldin, batteryblowinuppinshort if the hot cable should ground out. The ground cable on the SuperC is short and dependin' on what you have for a riggin' it can be a pain in the neck. Mine is such that I take the ground cable off both ends, batt and chassis, to make sure it can't possibly connect.

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agpilot

10-07-2007 13:18:17




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 Re: Supper C starter in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 10-07-2007 13:05:18  
Hi ScottyHomey: Quote: ...just to avoid some major spitzensparkin, fuzenblowin, framenweldin, batteryblowinuppinshort if the hot cable should ground out..... unquote. De scribed in perfect de tail... Better said then any of todays comics... agpilot



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ScottyHOMEy

10-07-2007 13:08:38




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 And what is in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 10-07-2007 13:05:18  
this "second screw" at the back of the starter you're talking about?



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Larry in GA.

10-07-2007 13:12:09




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 Re: And what is in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 10-07-2007 13:08:38  
The one holding the switch on. I think the switch is whats bad Larry



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ScottyHOMEy

10-07-2007 13:18:06




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 Re: And what is in reply to Larry in GA., 10-07-2007 13:12:09  
There sould be two screw holding your switch down, one at each end, fore and aft. If one is missing, and it sounds like the front one from your description, that could be your problem. Your rod pulls backwards, and could be lifting the front of the switch housing, making it impossible for the internals to connect up and getcurrent to your starter motor..



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Larry in GA.

10-07-2007 14:02:17




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 Re: And what is in reply to ScottyHOMEy, 10-07-2007 13:18:06  

Scotty It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong or that I had the only odd ball made but mine has two screws one on the outside away from the tractor and one on the inside next to the tractor and the one next to the tractor is the one I can't get at. I will check and see if one is loose and the switch is moving. It would have taken me a while to think of that, probable after I replaced the switch, tomorrow if I can find one local. (I think the switch is bad) Things like this all ways happens when I get my self in a short deadline going to a show. But that is better than when I'm headed to the field I guess. Thanks for the ideas. Larry

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ScottyHOMEy

10-07-2007 14:21:00




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 Re: And what is in reply to Larry in GA., 10-07-2007 14:02:17  
Sorry about that Larry. My mistake. I just went out to look at mine and they are port and starboard, not fore and aft. And I can see how that one on the backside can be the very devil to get to. Pull the cotter pin or bent nail on the back side of the pull rod (after you've disabled the electrics), undo the two bolts, and you'll be able to get at it.

Is your switch gold-colored (corroded or not) with rounded shoulders, or more like cast aluminum with sharp shoulders in the castings? Does it by chance spark around the switch or where the pull rod passes through the guide?

I had one of the old, sharp-edged(?) switched where the paper insulator inside broke into pieces and would short. Replacing it with one of the newer, round-shouldered, gold-colored types fixed the problem.

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