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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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F-12 hard start?

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Kurt Wentorf

08-14-2007 13:10:58




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I've owned my f-12 for over 20 years, It used to start on the 2nd pull. It now starts immediatly with a push, but with the crank it takes about 100 tries. The compression is about 40-45lb in each cly. I just rebuilt the fuel pump and carb. It runs great once started. What is the compression supposed to be? Any thoughts on getting it to start regularly again? Blistered Hands Kurt




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Bob Kerr

08-14-2007 16:38:22




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Kurt Wentorf, 08-14-2007 13:10:58  
I have to ask this since my F-12 acts up once in a while like yours does. Do you get any black smoke out when it finally starts? I think the problem on mine is the needle valve leaks a little bit and also the fuel shut off. The problem on mine is much worse when tank is full to 3/4 full since at that point it will feed fuel by gravity. I have had the thing sice about 1999 or 2000 and is one of those things I just haven't fixed yet since it runs perfect at a half tank and that half tank will last all day. If that sounds like the case on yours just syphon some gas back out and then see how it does.

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CENTAUR

08-14-2007 13:47:31




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Kurt Wentorf, 08-14-2007 13:10:58  
I would start by removing the magneto and then the points and then I would resurface them with a 120 grit at high speed that will produce a chrome like finish.VALVE GRINDING MACHINE ON THE SIDE OF THE WHEEL WILL RESTORE OLD POINTS LIKE NEW.I think you could do the same with an air powered die grinder or even a low cost ELECTRIC DREMEL.You can also buy a new set if available.Do not forget to lube the cam.CENTAUR

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Janicholson

08-14-2007 13:34:04




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Kurt Wentorf, 08-14-2007 13:10:58  
The impulse coupling may be sticking and not allowing the mag to hold back and spin fast through the start setting. If it starts with a bit of a roll, or pull, it is the most likely. Cranking by hand (in Neutral of course) there should be a easily heard click from the mag when the timing marks are just at or a bit past the pointer. If mot clicking, the mag needs to be marked for position,the tractor not moved, nor engine spun, and the mag removed to clean/degrease and relube the impulse coupling. JimN

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Kurt Wentorf

08-14-2007 14:05:02




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Janicholson, 08-14-2007 13:34:04  
Yes, the impuse can be heard clicking. I have not had the mag serviced in some time. But I am getting a spark(White/blue) when cranking with a plug removed. Is there a way to tell exactly where the spark should be set for starting? Kurt



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Janicholson

08-14-2007 18:39:42




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Kurt Wentorf, 08-14-2007 14:05:02  
Using the no data method:
Pull the plug closest to the radiator put a piece of hose in the hole (or get an assistant with a thumb) and gently crank the engine until the #1 cyl begins to blow air out. Put the end of a piece of bale wire about a foot long into the cyl and continue cranking and feeling with the wire until the piston gets to the top. The coupling should click just at that point. The timing marks should also line up exactly at that pint as well. JimN

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Ron W

08-15-2007 16:54:49




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 Re: F-12 hard start? in reply to Janicholson, 08-14-2007 18:39:42  
I am having the same problem with my old guys. It seems that the gas we buy nowadays evaporates out way too fast in the carb when it sets for a couple days, and I need a pull start to pump up the fuel. I made a new fuel line to the carb and put in many turns, like four or five I think and that holds enough gas. Good luck!



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