H 4 terminal reg install

Fun discussion, yall take care n God Bless

John T

4 Pole VR Wiring:

a) BAT on VR wires up to the Load (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. That could be the same wire that used to connect to the BAT terminal on the old Cutout Relay. The ammeters other Supply terminal wires to the battery/starter, often at the starter switch post where the big battery cable attaches and theres ONLY ONE wire on that side of the ammeter.

b) FLD on VR wires to the gennys Field post. The gennys Field post used to wire up to the light switch using the old cutout relay system but DO NOT run it up to the light switch now, instead wire the gennys Field to FLD on the new VR.

c) ARM (or GEN) on VR wires to the gennys Arm post. That used to wire to the GEN or ARM terminal on the old cutout relay, but now it wires to the Gen/Arm terminal on the new VR.

d) LOAD (L) on the new VR is what supplies input Voltage to loads like Lights n Ignition, by a wire that feeds the BAT input terminal on those switches. The Lights n Ignition used to get their input voltage feed from the ammeters Load terminal (same terminal that wires down to the BAT terminal on new VR) but when using a 4 pole Load type VR, you disconnect the switches input voltage feeds from the ammeters Load terminal and instead wire/feed them off the VR's L terminal, NOTE on may 4 pole VR's the 3 terminal together side by side are BAT ARM LOAD while the ARM terminal may be off on one side or the bottom all by itself.

I would POLARIZE the genny once shes all wired up and I assume the new VR is suitable for the ground youre now using???

Im not sure about the new resistor you mentioned, it sounds like it may be a Field current limiter of some sort, maybe Bob M knows????? Whats the directions say about it???

PS it would work if you ignored the L terminal and fed the lights n ignition still off the ammeters Load terminal, but I recommend you use the L terminal and feed the light switches BAT input terminal from it instead of the ammeter.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

I do understand how to connect F, ARM/GEN, and BAT terminals (having worked with 3 terminal regulators before) so I was just concerned with the L terminal and the resistor. As I mentioned in my original post, there was absolutely nothing in the accompanying instructions about how to connect the L terminal or the resistor.
That doesn"t say much about the company or individual who wrote those instructions!!

If, as you said, it will work if the L terminal is ignored, then what is the purpose of having the L terminal? In other words, what"s the theory "behind" that terminal?

Again, even though it would work without the L terminal (feed lights from ammeter) I would still use the L terminal for the reasons I described above, or even if theyre not exactly correct, theres gotta be other engineering reasons why they were developed as an improvement over the older 3 pole units.

Best wishes n God Bless, let us know how it works out

John T

As far as what tractors I operate, thanks for asking but theres been too may to count, mostly older Deeres lately and I used to farm full time with 2 cylinder Deeres (A, B, 60, 70, 620 720 and IHC (had H and M and 1066's) and Massey Fergusons (seems like 1105 I forget) and a few Allis thrown in, I have a D 15 now for light use and a 1938 B, I recently sold my last 620 and G and A as all I do now is keep a few cows n make a lil hay since Im semi retired from electrical engineering and now a country lawyer until the wife retires then its travel to old tractor shows lol. What kind do you use and prefer???

Fun discussion, thanks for your interest, take care n God Bless

John T