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Trailering Questions

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Larry in CO

06-19-2003 17:55:00




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I have just finished fixing up a Farmall H and am planning on taking it to a couple of parades and shows this summer. Before I got her fixed up, I wasn't too concerned about messing up what paint was left by running a chain through the wheels and tieing her down that way. Now that I have all new paint on her, I don't want to skin up the paint by chaining it down that way.

I was sorta planning on still running the chains through the rear wheels and protecting the wheels with some scrap carpet or rugs. What I don't know is how to chain the front end down without scratching everything up. I had thought about trying to find one of those plates that bolt onto the front bolster so you could back wagons around easier. I don't know where I would find one of those plates or if I could have one made.

After all that rambling, my question to all of you is: How do you guys chain everything down and not mess up your paint? And does anyone know if one of the front hitches, if I can find one or have one made, would be strong enough to hold everything in place?

Thanks, Larry

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Randy in NE

06-23-2003 19:46:06




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
According to DOT regulations anything over 10,000 lbs require at least 4 independent tie downs. They have a table that lists the requirements for different weights. You can find it at the DOT's website.



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Mark in Mississippi

06-23-2003 15:01:40




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Guys , Guys , Guys, Come on into the modern world of transporting "valuable cargo". A company called JEGS has just what everyone needs who shows thier fine Farmall equiptment. They have these part numbers available and work great in securing thier multi-million dollar race cars!!! ..... ..837-30AS..$9.99..2"x24" Axle Strap 837-505C8..$19.99..Ratchet Tie-Down..... Each are rated @ 5,000 lbs. No more marred / scratched paint jobs. Here is thier phone # 1-800-345-4545 or www.jegs.com Sure hope these work for you as they do wonders for me ....check 'em out. Mark

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Larry in CO

06-21-2003 19:24:44




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Many thanks to all who replied. I got some great ideas that helps me a lot. Thanks again. Larry



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Joe

06-20-2003 18:06:01




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Larry, I use bolt on "D" rings, available in two sizes, and bolt them onto the engine side rails in the vertical position. Have mine painted IHC red and just leave them mounted full time. For my shows, it works for me. For the rear, I use a clevis made with a chain hook instead of a standard clevis. Available at TSC, Big R and other farm supply stores. With it you don't have to wrap the chain around anything. Joe

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Jim

06-20-2003 07:17:03




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Clevis in the swinging drawbar. Loop chain through 2 times angled back toward the back of the trailer and use one chain tightener. I have a plate that bolts to the front spindle right above the front wheels. I use another clevis there and run a chain through 2 times and use another chain tightener. If I am going far, over 25 miles, I use 2 ratchett tie down straps down to the trailer from the channel along the engine on both sides. Does not move.

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Paul Shuler

06-19-2003 20:19:33




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Larry, I'm sure you will get a lot different replies all with good advise. I can just tell you how I do it. Like you it kills me to mar up new paint. I have a C, Super and a B and on all of them there are threaded holes in the front end right behind the bolster that you can put large eye bolts into and I like to use chains and booms. On the back I wrap it around the shaft of the axle with some kind of pad.I'll send a link so you can see how I do my tractors if you care. It's just two eye bolts with a couple of links and a hook.

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On2Wheels

06-19-2003 20:02:14




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Ok..here is my contribution to this...I have an M and for trailing I chain the rear end by using two chains, one at either corner. I then use binders on the chains but do not tighten them all the way. I then use one of those big straps, the ones that truckers use to bind a load down for the front. I put the strap around the front tires, with the strap connecting to the trailer on both sides forward of the tractor and tighten it down. Then I finish tightening the rear chains down and off I go to the show...no messed up paint except for the draw bar which is meant to get messed up a bit.

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Careful with a clevis...

06-19-2003 19:23:16




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
Not to rain on your parade guys...but using a clevis and single chain looped back on the rear end isn't a safe way to chain. No matter how tight you get the chain through it, the tractor still has the potential to move sideways and the chain will just slide through the clevis sideways if there is enough of a jolt. You should always use two chains on the rear, anchored independently to be the safest.

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rustyfarmall

06-20-2003 04:59:18




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 Re: Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Careful with a clevis..., 06-19-2003 19:23:16  
If you get the rear chain good and tight, and I mean tight, and fasten down the front of the tractor from either side like has been described, that tractor will not move. When tightening those load binders, you need to actually get them tight enough that you are squashing down the tires, you may need to use a cheater bar on the binder in order to accomplish this, and you will need to stop and check the tightness after a couple of miles or so, it will loosen up somewhat. I have hauled many tractors using this method, and have never had one even offer to move around on the trailer.

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scotc

06-21-2003 17:05:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Trailering Questions in reply to rustyfarmall, 06-20-2003 04:59:18  
WE use 2 chains on our equipment, from the 300 to the 1566, tie the front end forward(on the backhoe our front chain is almost horizontal), back the tractor against the chain, then the rear chain goes around the drawbar in a half-hitch to keep the chain from off-centering, then its bound down with a cheaterpipe so the tires are squatting. Havent lost anything yet. Good idea to check the chains too.

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rustyfarmall

06-19-2003 18:11:01




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
I don't see any reason why a front hitch won't work, and be strong enough, shouldn't be that hard of a job to make, or have made. Personally, I like to have my tractors chained down from either side, by looping the chain around the frame, which would'nt work in your case because it does scratch paint, but what about permantly attaching short lengths of chain to the frame, using bolts through the holes that are already there, this doesn't always look good either, but it sure beats loosing the tractor off of the trailer, and then you wouldn't need to run the chain through the rear wheels either, just use a clevis on the drawbar, and run the chain through that, won't scratch any paint that way.
Just an idea.

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49 Cubber!

06-19-2003 18:08:14




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 Re: Trailering Questions in reply to Larry in CO, 06-19-2003 17:55:00  
On my M I have a clevis pin,rated at I think 10 or 12000 pds.I have it on the drawbar and run the chain through that.on the front I have 2 short peices of the same type of chain I use for binding it down bolted on each side on the frame rails and hook my binding chains to that.I set my chains so that they will be angled to the front and rear,depending on which end I am binding.



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