Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Kountry Life
Discussion Forum

H Lube system question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Christopher Zahrt

07-02-2002 15:42:19

Report to Moderator

Last weekend, I attempted to pull start the H I've been working on for a couple months. It didn't work, but an earlier post yielded the answer (bad intake gasket). However, I was checking the governor, and found that during all of the pulling, it hadn't gotten any oil on it. Does this indicate my oil passages are plugged? I'm getting oil to the filter. Do I have to disassemble the engine and get the block dipped, or is there an easier way of cleaning the lube system? Thanks again. You all have been a HUGE help during this project.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]

07-03-2002 09:03:18

Report to Moderator
 Re: H Lube system question in reply to Christopher Zahrt, 07-02-2002 15:42:19  
If the inside of the governor housing is dry, you certainly have blockage in an oil passage somewhere. Please take this problem seriously. The life of your engine depends on it.

Oil supply from the governor to the pump is as follows: The governor receives oil through a short passage cast in the timing gear cover. [This passage also has a tiny hole into the gear cavity that sprays oil on the idler gear to lube the entire gear set in the front of the engine. If you have to remove the timing gear cover to pull out the camshaft, make sure the slot and hole are clean.] The timing cover gets oil through a hole drilled vertically up through the front main bearing bolt hole on the governor side of the engine. This vertical hole receives oil from a hole that is cross-drilled from the front cam bearing. The front cam bearing is lubed from the front main bearing oil supply. Oil for the front main bearing is supplied from another cross-drilled passage from the main oil gallery that runs along the oil filter side of the engine. This main oil gallery is fed directly from the oil pump and also supplies oil to the other main bearings, filter, and oil pressure gage.

To see if you have oil at the timing gear cover, remove the governor and turn the engine over (switch off) to see if oil comes out of the plate the governor bolts to. This supply is intermittent due to the camshaft slot so if any oil comes out at all after about 10 seconds of cranking, the supply to the cover is OK. If oil drips out then the governor housing passage is plugged. It may even be that a homemade or broken gasket is blocking oil flow into the governor. Since you have the governor off, look in the hole that the governor gear comes out of. You will see the idler gear teeth. If they are dry, then you are not getting oil to the timing gear cover. If you still don't have oil here, it will be time to start removing parts. However, you still won't have to strip the block yet.

Next, remove the distributor/magneto drive. You will see two 1/8" pipe plugs with hex-shaped holes for taking them out right behind the plate. Remove the top plug and crank the engine again. If there is oil here and none at the cover mentioned in the previous paragraph, you have eliminated all but two holes. Getting to these, though, will require dropping the pan and also removing the camshaft.

The least troublesome of the two is to remove the oil pan and take out the main bearing cap bolt on the governor side of the engine. Run a wire up through this hole as far as it will go. This hole runs clear up to the top mounting flange of the timing gear cover so you will have an idea of how far it should reach. If you have a small brush to run up there you will break more sludge loose. Wash the hole out with your favorite solvent if possible. You should be able to blow air up through the bolt hole and have it come out at the plate the governor mounts to.

If you still suspect the cross-hole is plugged, you will have to remove the camshaft and clean out this passage. I know of no easy way to get to it.

Sorry about making such a long post. The Service Manual covers the oil system and has a diagram and description of the oil system. I recommend purchasing one.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Farmer Bob

07-02-2002 21:08:52

Report to Moderator
 Re: H Lube system question in reply to Christopher Zahrt, 07-02-2002 15:42:19  
Christopher, Don't go to that length of trouble until you have done the following. First, crank the engine over with the starter (Switch off) until you see some oil pressure building on the guage. Remove the valve cover and verify that oil is getting into the rocker arm assembly. Carefully remove the breather tube from the front of the head and the housing atop the governor. Check to make sure that tube is not clogged with old gunk. I use a length of #12 copper wire to push through these to clean out any sludge. Blow it out with compressed air. Reassemble everything and you should be good to go.//FB

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums

Today's Featured Article - Tractors and Winter - by Staff. Unfortunately, tractors and winter don't mix well. It seems that I can start out with my tractors in great running condition but sometime during the long cold dark winter they quickly revert to the lawn-art category. The lack of running, cold weather, and admitted neglect all take their toll on a machine. If you are lucky enough to not need your tractors during the winter months you can perform a few simple maintenance items to winterize and come spring have them going by reversing the process. If you need your tractor in ready-to-run condition (like that ... [Read Article]


Copyright © 1997-2020 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy